Hello from Peru Again!

Day 6: Maras Plateau

Updated: August 4, 2022

Today’s exploration was a full day hike to the Inca remains of Moray and the Maras salt mines. Although there was a concert next door until 4 am (seriously) we left the blinds open so we could wake up with the sun. We had breakfast and coffee and met our guide at 8:15. Turns out, even though there are a lot of guests in the hotel, we were the only ones on this tour.

Is the concert over yet??

Guess what Jo needs…

…Cappuccino!

Our guide, Chio, explained the route for the day along with the main sights. We got in the van and were off. It was about an hour drive to the town of Misminay, a small farming village at 3,710 meters. We walked along a path, learning about some of the local trees and herbs along the way. For example, muÃ±a, an Andean mint that makes great tea and is also used to help digestion.

Heading out for the day

We walked a couple of miles to Moray, an archeological site that shows 4 circular terraces. Since we hiked from a higher elevation, we had some great overhead views.

I think I just discovered something

Aliens

We continued to walk down along the paths along the highest rings of the Moray for a closer view. The function is unknown (possibly an agricultural research lab, possibly a religious site, possibly aliens, etc), but they were constructed deliberately. There were 4 existing sinkholes that were made into terraces with stairs connecting each level. The stairs are too far apart for people, leading archeologists to believe that they were made for the donkeys and alpacas. Up until about 10 years ago, people were allowed in the Moray, but now, only locals during specific celebrations and the restoration council are allowed.

Great concert seating

Close up of the walls, complete with trendy floating stairs

They did say it looks like an avocado

After viewing the site, we continued our hike another 30 minutes to our lunch spot. Because we were hiking on or near main roads, the van was able to meet us for lunch — meaning, we did not need to carry our own — and we enjoyed an Explora style 3-course hiking lunch. Not too shabby. Once full and rested, we started again for the second part of the hike and the next main attraction: the Maras salt mines.

Lunch oasis appears

We continued our downhill hike through the town of Maras, where we drove through this morning to get to Misminay. Maras is one of the towns in Peru that has many preserved Incan architecture. We walked past a decorative doorway from the 1500s. Once the Spanish came, they changed the architecture and culture in ways that can also be seen today. Almost every building is still white with blue doors, and many have crosses above the door, showing the catholic influence.

On the road again

The town of Maras and their blue doors

From there, we followed a mountain bike path down towards the salt mines. This road is used by hikers and bikers alike, but it is specifically a route for a mountain biking competition.

Yeah, that’s gonna be a no for me

Once we arrived at the Maras salt mines, we first stopped at a lookout point before hiking in closer. There are about 4,500 terraced pools from the pre-Spanish time that the villagers continue to maintain. Water is routed into the pools, which, when evaporated, leave layers of salt. The only people who are allowed to own a salt pool are those who live in Maras or Pichingoto, the two villages on the main road on either side of the salt mines.

Almost there!

Overlooking the salt mines

I’m suddenly very thirsty

Evaporation in process

The last stop was to meet the van 3 km down the road. We walked along the salt mine valley, with different views and perspectives the whole time. We made it past Pichingoto to the van, back at 2,850 meters. After stretching and enjoying a post-hike snack, we hopped back in the van and drove about 30 minutes back to Explora.

Back in the valley

We did it!

We arrived on the earlier side (at about 4:15) so Chio helped us pick our exploration for the day after tomorrow (we already know we are going to Machu Picchu tomorrow), and we went back to the spa to relax.

The spa house is preserved from the 1700s

Tomorrow will be an easier day, but it will be long. We are set to leave at 7 am and likely won’t return until at least 7:30 pm. Should be a fun adventure.

Day 5: Cusco to Sacred Valley

by Joanna

Updated: August 3, 2022

1 Comment

Explora was scheduled to pick us up from our Cusco hotel at 11:00, so we had a relaxed start to the morning. After packing up, we had breakfast and took in the amazing view we weren’t able to see last night in the dark. After breakfast, we still had some time, so we decided to walk around the neighborhood. We stumbled upon a shop selling alpaca wool sweaters, ponchos, hats, etc (it wasn’t hard, they are pretty common). We knew alpaca sweaters were on the list of things we wanted to take home, so we tried a few on and each bought a soft and warm sweater. We walked back to the hotel and hung out on our terrace until Explora came to pick us up. As expected, one person came to the door and we walked down to the van.

Oh, hi, Cusco. Didn’t know you were there

Walking around the “streets” of Cusco near the hotel

Enthusiastic alpaca sweater salesman

Cusco is a bit much, let’s go

While the Sacred Valley is only 15 km north of Cusco as the Nazgul flies, the ride took about 2 hours. We enjoyed driving through the different towns and villages and seeing the views along the way. Soon enough, we arrived at Explora. We had time to unpack and have lunch before setting off on our first exploration, a short hike in Huertos de Yucay.

Approaching Sacred Valley decked out in Alpaca

Arrived at Explora-Valle Sagrado

The view right outside…

…Our room

The hike followed the Urubamba River, through an area where prominent Inca leaders used to live. The Incan architecture and walls are still in place today (I think this will be a theme on this trip).

Let’s get hiking and even out that tan

If he stand very very still, maybe no one will notice the donkey

One example of the waterway created by the Incans

An example of how the current farmers control the flow of water

The land was, and still is, used as terraced farmland. We walked right along fields and saw some farmers working. On the way back down, the terraces were clear to see.

Farming in action

Walking though terrace farms

More walking through terrace farms, now with animals

Some of the ancient architecture is still found in the area, but with no real use. The walls and water canals definitely have a purpose, but the huts on rocks, not so much.

Ancient Incan Benchy

Terraced farming

More views of the terrace

When we arrived back at the hotel we had about an hour and a half before our orientation meeting, so we decided to check out the spa. We spent some time relaxing in the hot tub, then swam a few leisurely laps in the pool before showing and getting ready. We didn’t spend too much time there today, but it is very likely that we will be back.

We made it to the orientation talk where we learned a bit more about Explora and the surrounding area. Afterwards, we met with our guide to pick our exploration for tomorrow — which will be a full day hike down the Madras Plateau. Spending last night in Cusco will prove to be useful as tomorrow’s hike starts at 3732m (or 12,244ft). The good news is that it’s mostly downhill back to Explora. With our plans locked in, we had a delicious dinner and relaxed the rest of the night.

Bar snack and delicious alcohol-free drink

Day 4: Lima to Cusco

by Joanna

Updated: August 2, 2022

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We woke up this morning on the earlier side so we had enough time to pack and eat breakfast. We checked out of the hotel at 8:15, but had them hold our bags until later. We set off for our adventure of the day: a market tour, fruit tasting, and cooking class.

Breakfast at the hotel displaying paragliders way too close together

We walked about 40 minutes to one of the markets in the area and met Jose, our guide for the day. Turns out we were the only ones to sign up, so we got a private tour and class. Jose walked us through the market, explaining the different foods at the stalls and how they use them. There are a variety of meats (they like to use the entire animal), fresh fish, fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices, and smoothie/juice counters. Jose bought a few items along the way that we would be using later in our cooking.

This little piggy went to the market

One of the fruit stands at the market

Vegetable stall where you can get a piece of pumpkin

Fish lady will hook you up

Once the market tour was complete, we took a taxi together for a quick ride to Sky Kitchen, located on the top floor of an apartment building. The first thing we did was taste about 35 different fruits. These ranged from the familiar (bananas and citrus) to the unknown (cacti fruit). They were all pretty good, but some standouts were cherimoya, Andean tomatoes, and sanki.

Prepping for Sky Kitchen cooking class

The assortment of Peruvian fruits (and one Mexican)

After the tasting, it was time to cook, but first, we had to start with a a Pisco sour. Pisco is the distilled alcohol from wine, so there are many varieties depending on the wine it came from. We mixed the Pisco with fresh-squeezed limes and egg whites, and boom, delicious drink.

The kitchen, featuring the ever important bottle of Pisco

With that out of the way, it was time to prepare the first course — Causa de Pollo — a mashed-potato, chicken-salad, and avocado tower. Jose taught us how plate it like a professional chef, and I think we did a pretty good job. After each course, we sat down to enjoy it.

There are over 4,000 types of potatoes in Peru (not all pictured)

Adding the finishing touches on the Causa de Pollo

Proud of our work

Ceviche was next. All of the recipes we made were traditional Peruvian food, but this one is pretty well known. We learned about how ceviche uses raw fish, so you have to be sure the fish is fresh. This fish was probably swimming in the Pacific Ocean less than 12 hours ago, so yeah, it was fresh!

All of the ceviche ingredients prepped and ready

Ojo de uva is a good type of fish to use for ceviche, but any fresh whitefish will do

Next on the menu was Lomo Saltado, beef tenderloin stir-fried with tomatoes, onions, soy sauce, red wine, vinegar and herbs. It is served with rice and French fries.

Stir-fry and French fry

The finished product

Finally, we made picarones for dessert. We actually started making this at the start of the class by chopping sweet potato and pumpkin so it could boil and soften, then mashed it, then added flour and yeast and waited until the end of class for it to rise. By this point the dough had risen and we were ready to fry.

We formed the dough into rings using just our fingers on one hand and dropped them into the oil. There is no refined sugar in the recipe, but there is a syrup made from cloves, cinnamon, and a natural rock sugar derived straight from sugar cane. They were like fall-flavored bingets. On the whiteboard in the kitchen, there was a list of names under “picarones challenge.” Some people ate up to 14 of them. We ate 2. We think they were cheating (they were obviously making Minnesota State Fair mini-picarones).

Dough fry

When the class was completed we were full of knowledge and food. It was a great experience. We walked back to the hotel to pick up our bags and relax for a few minutes before heading to the airport. We got there with plenty of time to spare before our 7 pm flight to Cusco.

Sky Kitchen deck

More murals on the drive to the airport

Back at Jorge Chavez International

The flight went well and we were picked up from the airport. The roads were not quite your typical city roads. Soon, we turned off the main street and onto very narrow, uneven, stone roads. The taxi couldn’t quite make the last turn, so we walked up the hill, then up a bunch of stairs that I don’t think the taxi would have been able to climb.

Bye, Lima!

You don’t get this kind of legroom on United

As far as this taxi goes

We made it to our room, complete with a terrace, kitchenette on the first floor, and bedroom on the second floor and enjoyed a few cups of mate de coca tea. Tomorrow we will go to Explora (maybe their van knows how to climb stairs?) for the following 6 nights.

Day 3: Lima

by Joanna

Posted: August 1, 2022

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Today started with breakfast in the hotel. It was a grey morning and we quickly walked 3.5 miles in about an hour to the neighborhood of Barranco. Along the way, we walked passed parks and outdoor workout stations. Nothing like doing pull ups with an ocean view.

Today’s breakfast is brought to you by the color armarillo.

Morning marine mist

Entering the neighborhood. Why is there a windmill?

In Barranco, we were supposed to go on a free walking tour (meeting at the Starbucks in the center of town), but the guide did not show up. When we finally messaged the tour operator 30 minutes after it was supposed to start, he said the guide was in an accident. Fishy. But hey, we were still in Barranco and there was plenty we could do on our own. We did some quick internet searching, fueled up on authentic Peruvian chocolate Starbucks, found an info center with a map of the area, and set off on our own tour. Plus, as we were waiting, the clouds and fog lifted and it ended up being a sunny day.

This is a reminder that we are missing the third to last episode of Better Call Saul… is that you, Nippy?

Con: Alejandro AWOL. Pro: Starbucks aqui.

One of the major attractions in Barranco are the murals. There are multiple ‘zones’ that have murals covering the sides of the buildings. We walked around in search of as many murals as we could find. There are a large variety, but Jade Rivera is a prominent artist and his work can be seen throughout the city. We were able to stop in his shop and hear a bit more about his art.

We can find our own murals

Jade Rivera mural and studio

Bilingual mural

I know that’s a key, but where is the mural?

Quoth the Raven, “Fck! We’ll do it live.”

Go women!

Another cool mural

In 2015, the new mayor thought that the murals did not look good for the city and that they would lose their UNESCO Heritage status if they kept them. He had 60 murals painted over in bright yellow (his political party). But, there was also a contest that year for the mural artists, so more murals were made.

Anti-mural politicians also brought to you by the color armirillo

Another pretty major part of Barranco is the coastline. There are sweeping views of the ocean from the town as well as parks and beaches. We did not go all the way down to the beachfront, but we did get great views of the ocean. After walking through all of the mural zones (as noted on our map), we started to venture back towards Miraflores.

No altitude sickness yet!

Checking out the views on the walk back

No tsunamis today

Along the way, we walked along the paths above the coastline as much as possible. Pretty much the entire way was gardens and parks we meandered through. One of these parks is called El Parque del Amor – The Park of Love. There are windy low mosaic walls surrounding a giant statue of a couple in an embrace. We also saw surfers riding the waves below, and paragliders launching off to ride the wind.

Get a room

Mosaic bench

By the time we made it back to the hotel, 6 hours and 11 miles had passed. We drank our free hotel beers and relaxed for a while before heading back to Poke 51 for more delicious dinner.

Cervezas Premium Peruana after 11 miles are pretty tasty

Neighbor building is hopping after 7pm

Another delicious Poke 51 visit

Tomorrow we are scheduled for a market tour/fruit tasting/cooking class. I’m pretty sure they will show up. After that, we take a short flight to Cusco for the night.

Day 2: Lima

by Joanna

Updated: August 1, 2022

1 Comment

After getting some sleep, we went to the hotel restaurant for a breakfast of omelette, pancakes, and fresh juice. Once we were full, we went back up to the room to relax, get ready for the day, and to pack back up. We checked out right at noon and took an Uber to our next hotel which is located in the neighborhood of Miraflores.

Good Morning, Lima.

Hello, Miraflores. Welcome to the center of the maze.

Off to seize the day

We were lucky and a room was ready, so we were able to check in early, get settled, and plan out the afternoon’s adventures. I had an idea of where to go and what to see, but we ironed out the details. We took another Uber to the Historic District to see some of the famous sites. We started the the Plaza de Armas where we also saw the Palace and Official Residence of the President of Peru. It is also the oldest Spanish palace in Peru, but definitely not the oldest building (see below). Next stop was the Case de la Literatura Peruna. This building is an old train station that is now a library and museum with huge portions of the ceiling made from stained glass.

Government Palace. Not the oldest building in Lima.

Plaza de Armas

Roaming street cleaning gangs of Lima

Stained glass ceiling in the former train station/current museum

From there, we walked just a little further and went in the Museo Municipal Prehispanico where we saw collections of ceramics from the 5 cultures in Peru after the Incas, ranging from 1500 BC to 200 AD. We continued walking and attempted to see the Museo Convento de San Francisco (a giant church and monastery with catacombs), but it was very under construction and pretty well blocked off. The barriers did have pictures of what it looks like inside, so that’s basically the same.

Finding ancient kettlebells

The most concerned pots you’ve ever seen.

By this point, we were getting hungry and looking for a quick snack. Working off the axiom that we should eat where the locals eat, we figured one of the two churro places with the world’s longest lines should be the spot. We finally figured out that there are actually 2 lines — one to pay for the number of churros you want, and one to receive the churros. By the time we we able to pick up the churros, there was only one flavor left — dulce de leche cream. Turns out the wait was worth it as the churros were delicious and plenty of food to hold us over until dinner.

World’s longest churro line

Delicious churros worth the line

We ventured over to the Parque de Murals, which should be a park with flower murals, but we were reminded that it is in fact winter here, so that’s a no go on the flower blooms. We did see a police band playing (actual police officers, not a Police cover band) and the remnants of what was the city wall in 1684-1687. We were staring to head back to Miraflores when we passed the Bodega and Quadra House and decided to go in. This was an old house that went pretty much unnoticed until archeologists found it and the remains of some of the oldest settlements in Lima. We walked through the museum to see some of the artifacts up close, and we were able to walk on paths around the dig site.

Map of Lima from 1685. Note the walls.

The walls.

Has good bones, but is a real fixer-upper.

Also on our way toward getting an Uber, we stopped in the Cocoa Museum and shop where we tasted a chocolate cream pisco (delicious, 12%) as well as a passionfruit chocolate pisco (very delicious, 45%). We managed to only taste and not buy, and continued to head back.

Can I get more of that chocolate pisco?

Back at the Plaza de Armas, in Lima.

Getting too crowded. Let’s head back

We made a quick pit stop back at the hotel and decided where to look for a restaurant for dinner. Yes, you read that right, we went out to find a sit-down restaurant. We considered a few places near the hotel, but decided on Poke 51, a casual Peruvian and Asian fusion place. Our server provided some recommendations and we ended up sharing scallops, beef cheek, and octopus nori tacos. We also had a Pisco punch and fresh fruit lemonade. It was all amazingly delicious and we will probably go back tomorrow to try more of the menu.

Scallops on edamame puree

Octopus nori taco

Day 1: Chicago to Lima

by Joanna

Updated: July 31, 2022

1 Comment

First item on the Peru agenda is getting to Peru. With no direct flights from Chicago to Lima, we had to have a layover somewhere and decided to take the earlier flight to Dallas to ensure we had plenty of time for a stress-free layover. We were out the door and on the way to O’Hare at 9:00 am. Once we arrived, we were able to quickly use the bag drop kiosks to check our bags and breezed through security using TSA Precheck. The only other people in line in front of us were people who did not have Precheck and were sent to the other security line.

The blog is in good hands with these trusted handypeople

The Addison blue line is just like Geneva

With plenty of time to spare before the flight, and with the gate right next to the food court, we ordered breakfast and relaxed at a table until it was time to board. Take-off ended up being a bit delayed, and there was some weather we thought we were going to have to go around, but we arrived in Dallas not much later than expected.

Flying away

Let’s not stay in Dallas/Fort Worth

The gate for the flight to Lima was in a different terminal, so we found the skyway tram to get there. What they say is true: everything really is bigger in Texas. Especially the airport. Once we were in the right terminal, getting to the gate was a breeze. We arrived around 2:30 and were getting hungry. What about lunch? Whataburger! Opting not to go for the fancy lounge, we made the time useful by enjoying our food and planning a few activities and tours to do over the next few days.

Finally, it was time to board the flight to Lima. This flight was also a bit late with boarding and taking off, but otherwise went pretty smoothly. We arrived at about 1:00 am, deplaned and waited in line at customs. We had to show our vaccination proof, which they totally looked at very carefully. Definitely didn’t just glance at a phone screen with a QR code. By the time we got through, our bags were on the carousel waiting for us and we walked out of the airport and across the street to the hotel we are staying at for the night.

Made it through customs at 2:00 am.

Things are helpfully labeled in English in Peru

We checked in and were welcomed with our first official pisco sour. We also had concha, a delicious Peruvian roasted corn snack at the hotel bar. Tomorrow we will venture to Miraflores, where we will stay for the next two nights.

The first of probably many pisco sours

New favorite snack: concha

Getting Ready for Peru

by admin

Updated: July 31, 2022

Day 8: Col de la Loze

by Joanna

Posted: July 16, 2022

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Today is the last day of biking. We didn’t have too much of an early start today, waking up at 8:00m for a delicious breakfast of coffee, croissants, and cornflakes. We got ready for the day’s ride, which had a few options. While some people started right from the chalet, Matt started at Courchevel 1850.

Off for the last ride of the trip!

Smiling before the hard part starts

Jo has the easy job of sitting near the sign rather than riding the route

The ride started with a few kilometers from 1850 to the start of the grueling 6km up to Col de la Loze where part of the route was an insane 20% incline.

Halfway there!

Restaurant along the way at the top of a gondola

Still going up

Matt, you’re supposed to be celebrating!

At the top, there was a giant polka dot bike, aptly placed after a tough mountain ride. All of the bikers stopped and met for refreshments at the only cafe open. The next part of the ride was a steep and technical decent down to MÃ©ribel, then on to La Tania, and finally a few kilometers back to La Praz.

Success!

Matt’s reward for making it to the top

Relaxing before the ride back down

The bikers! (Minus Jim)

Starting the ride down

While the bikers were riding, I stayed in the support van until the start of the Col de Loze, where there is no access for cars. Once the riders came through and got their snacks, we went back to La Praz and had some time before the riders finished their day. I went for a run along the lake and dirt bike trails, then met Eileen for lunch.

Right as we were finishing lunch, most of the riders returned to the chalet. Matt and I relaxed in the living room, caught up on the blog, and watched the Tour. We leave very early in the morning to get to the airport on the first transport, so part of the day was spent packing up and getting ready to leave.

There are some wild windy roads here

Thanks trusty bike!

Blogging and Racing

Our final meal together was a fancy steak dinner with a smoked salmon appetizer. We had a cheese board for dessert, that included the local specialty, Beaufort d’Ã©tÃ©. This is the summer Beaufort cheese, which tastes a bit more sweet and nutty than the winter cheese since the cows can eat flowers and grass instead of hay. Dave joined us for dinner and we had a great time talking and laughing throughout the night. I was very happy to eat all sorts of cheese and drink port, thus completing my Tour de French food.