Day 8: Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp
We hit the daily-double again — a satisfying night’s sleep and amazing morning weather! Sleeping on the ground for seven nights in a row was a top concern prior to the trip, but hasn’t been a problem at all. Perhaps the lack of oxygen at ~13,000 ft makes your body to prioritize things differently? Sore back? Suck it up! No really, go suck up some oxygen first. (Note: I am not a doctor)
On the topic of restful sleep, we can confirm for anybody out there considering a Kilimanjaro climb, that bringing an extra canteen to send a “WiFi tent” message from the comfort of your own tent at night is very helpful. We don’t mind the cold, but crawling in your tent once at night and crawling out once in the morning is plenty! Speaking of getting out in the morning, thank you James for always rising the earliest and catching the best photos at dawn.
The plan for today is to depart Karanga Camp and climb ~1,800 ft northeast toward Barafu Camp on a steady but relentless upwards path. Barafu Camp is often referred to as Base Camp, because it is the camp where many hikers (including us) launch their final nighttime push for the Summit, and return the following afternoon. Because of this, turnover for the camping “sites” at Barafu is not as early, and the urgency to pack up our Karanga Camp aas early as previous days is not as strong.
Don’t get the wrong impression… this ain’t Moshi Time! The porters can chill out for a while, but mere mortals like us still need to start hiking by 8am in order to reach Barafu Camp by noon (it’s a four-hour trek). The sooner we get to Barafu, the sooner we can start eating and napping — and eating and napping again — in order to adjust our body clocks for TONIGHT’S (!!!) Summit push.
Of course, we didn’t break camp without our daily dose of porridge. Today’s additional breakfast offerings featured French toast minis, bacon, and fruit. On the topic of porridge, here is a very subjective ranking of the top items you can use to modify/augment your porridge and enhance your culinary experience — or just make it edible… 1. Butter (for those who want to play it straight), 2. Fruit (hit or miss, depending on the fruit), 3. Drinking Chocolate (popular choice), 4. Milo (a worse version of Drinking Chocolate, don’t do it), 5. Peanut Butter (pretty good, better when cold), and finally, 6. Nutella (splitting the difference between 3 & 5 but not really as good as either according to eyewitness reports). Not sure anybody gave the Mazoon Chilli sauce a go, but it was bound to happen eventually.
The hike was “easier” than yesterday’s scramble to Karanga in some ways, but harder in others. The challenge today was the ever-increasing elevation, ultimately landing us back at 15,000 ft at Barafu Camp. Another challenge was the knowledge that our impending doom (Summit Night) was growing ever-closer (just kidding…OR… were those rings getting heavier???).
The combination of these factors meant we all hiked a bit more focused and quiet. Hats off to Ari and Aaron for continuing to shoot a ton of great photos. As a group, we took it “Pole, Pole”, made a couple well-timed breaks, and stayed on top of our hydration and snack needs (headlined by Corn Nuts, Cheez-Its, Skittles, Peanut M&Ms, and unwrapped Jolly Ranchers).
In the last paragraph, if you are wondering why the Jolly Ranchers were unwrapped, that’s because in preparing for the trip, we followed some sage internet advice to eliminate having to deal with the empty wrappers. Before you leave, unwrap a bunch of ’em, toss in a bag with some cornstarch, and boom… instant Kilimanjaro life hack to avoid being “that person” who just tosses their trash all over Kilimanjaro.
And yet, one of the infuriating things we saw during our hike… was the remnants of “that person”! Large quantities of fairly new-looking blue and gold Ivori-brand candy wrappers littered along the trail. Like, WTF people!?! We all imagined spotting the person in the act of tossing these wrappers on the trail, and reading them the riot act. In the meantime, we engaged in Legolas/Gimli-style competition to pick up as many of these Ivori wrappers as we could along the way. Sigh, some people.
Other than those darn blue and gold wrappers, the Alpine Desert zone featured a rocky moon-scape terrain with a palette of blacks, browns, and some deep reds. Almost no vegetation was visible (save for infrequent appearances of couple small “weed-like” plants and yellow flowers). The trail itself was well-travelled, so that was not a problem. And despite some slight slipperiness due to a high level of dust, nobody had any problems with trips or falls. Good footwork, team!!!
Upon our arrival at Barafu Camp, the primary observation (compared to previous camps) is the elongated layout of the camp, and the drastic change in elevation from the tents at the front of the camp to the tents in the back. Our tents were higher up near the back, so we probably climbed another couple hundred feed AFTER passing the Barafu Camp welcome sign. On the bright side, that’s a couple hundred feet less to reach the summit!
The lack of “flat” space on the side of mountain at 15,000 ft is not surprising (duh), but it definitely presented a greater challenge for us to navigate the rocky terrain at this camp — even walking from our tent to the dining tent required caution — especially as darkness rolled in with the cloud cover and sunset. In retrospect, it’s basically a miracle none of us ended up rolling or twisting an ankle on this trip.
At lunch, James (our cook) and Nelson (our server) pulled out all the stops for a perfect meal to fuel us into the evening. The menu featured vegetable salad, fruit, french fries, kabobs, and potato soup. The kabobs didn’t last longer than 10 minutes. But in a surprising twist — despite the Soup Bros (Ari and Matt) combining to eat six bowls between themselves — there was still some soup that didn’t get eaten. Come on team!!!
Speaking of which, one aspect of the Ultimate Kilimanjaro dining experience we noticed after every meal is that food is never thrown out. If there are a few bowls of soup left, or if the nine of us left any amount of uneaten food on the serving trays, Nelson and the porters take care to collect it, divide it up, and whisk it away to the porter’s dining tent. A+ Ultimate Kilimanjaro Clean Plate Club service. Some of those porters are definitely Soup Bros.
At the conclusion of lunch (about 2pm), August and Baraka filled us in on the schedule for the rest of the day, culminating with our departure for the summit later tonight (we now qualified as “need to know”). Step 1: Rest immediately. Step 2: Health check and dinner at 5pm. Step 3: Rest some more. Step 4: 10:45pm wake up call with hot drinks and snacks. And Step 5: Profit! Just kidding, Step 5 is an 8-hour hike in freezing temperatures up the side of 27% gradient mountain. ARE YOU READY!?!? They did mention it was important to be very punctual on the 11pm start time for Step 5 because many other groups are heading out before and after we do.
As recommended, we departed the dining tent immediately and attempted to nap/rest until 5pm. Some of us are better nappers than others, but we each managed to get a small amount of sleep. We saved most of our gear prep and clothing changes for after dinner.
At 5pm, we shook off the daze of our pseudo-naps, and carefully walked over to the dining tent for health checks in the twilight of dusk. Mt. Mawenzi was poking thru the clouds to the east. We all passed our final health checks and were given the green light to start the hike later tonight. To be honest, I wonder what the guides would have to see or hear in order to prevent somebody from continuing (especially if that person wanted to continue).
In our group, despite some “not feeling great” answers and the fact that James often registered as clinically frozen according to the finger oxygen meter, they seemed pretty confident we were all fit as a fiddle. Everybody besides Matt chose to take Diamox pills for the previous week to help treat potential mountain sickness symptoms. And that worked out well because UK said everybody — including Matt — was doing fine in the AMS department.
It was interesting however, that August advised us to “think positive” as a legitimate psychosomatic solution to the potential for any problems that could arise on the hike. Like “Hey, if you feel like you have to throw up, then just go ahead and do that. You’ll feel better. It will be fun!” This did not sound like actual useful advice at the time (as in, “um… what will “thinking positive” do for actual Acute Mountain Sickness??”). However, during the hike, it actually seemed plausible. Good call, August.
Dinner was noticeably full of stomach-settling foods like ginger carrot soup, as well as central-casting carbs like pasta and potatoes. As mentioned before, Ultimate Kilimanjaro is extremely proficient at knowing how to feed us for success.
Unfortunately, Matt’s tongue/throat was not doing to well — probably from sucking an excessive amount of unwrapped Jolly Ranchers, thus tipping the sugar balance in his mouth (or something), leading to difficulty swallowing. (Reminder Note: I am not a doctor) Earlier attempts to self-medicate with salt and alum (thanks Ari!) did not help much. A bite of pasta would go great until the tongue was needed shortly thereafter — and it turns out your tongue is surprisingly heavily involved with everything thereafter! Thankfully, the ginger carrot soup was a lifesaver… #SoupBroSavesLives. And next time, remember to give away even MORE unwrapped Jolly Ranchers to the porters and guides who pass you by on the trail!
After dinner (around 6pm), we returned to to our tents. We made final preparations for the upcoming summit hike, including putting on all the gear and layers we planned on wearing, even if it was too early (such as knee braces under base layers four hours ahead of time). Jo got about three-and-a-half hours of sleep and Matt clocked in at maybe two. Thankfully, we took care of all preparations before we fell asleep. There was literally NO time to think after our alarms went off at 10:45pm. TIME TO GET UP and start the summit hike!
Not “that kind” of doctor.