Hello from Tierra del Fuego!

Day 9: El Chaltén to Chicago

Updated: April 9, 2023

We woke up for our last day at Explora to a beautiful sunrise and moon-set – after a clear starry night. Since we were the only guest going to the airport, and because there was no noon airport pickup, we were able to leave at 9:30, giving us time for a leisurely breakfast. We sadly turned in our room keys and were ready to go.

Clear stars late last night

Last of the daily window shots – this one featuring the moon

Sad returning keys

When we left, we stopped in the town of El Chaltén to do some souvenir shopping. The season is ending and we arrived at about 10:15, so some of the stores were closed, such as Patagonicus, the liquor store/Harry Potter spell. Our driver, Santiago, took us to a shop that was open and we found shirts, glasses, and new fridge magnets to add to our collection. We also found bottles of Calafate juice (as promised by Mauro) and bought two to bring home – complete with ceramic shot glasses.

View of La Vuelta river on the way out

The only open gift shop

The two hour journey to the airport continued with a stop to take pictures of the perfectly clear Mt. Fitzroy. After about an hour, we took a quick break at Leona’s – the same restaurant we stopped at on the way in.

Checking out Mt. Fitzroy as we leave

Mountains for days

Leaving Fitz Roy road

Bye mountains

Calafate Airport is small, with only a few gates. We know it would be quick to check-in and get it the gate, but when we arrived we were too early to check in. We killed time by shopping in the airport gift shop where mom bought a guanaco shawl and Matt learned about the legend of the Calafate berry.

Layered hills on the way to the airport

Arrived at the airport and still sad to leave

After going around the line a few times, we were allowed to to check-in. At this point we were hungry for lunch and stopped at the one restaurant in the airport before going through security.

Happy for giant hamburger lunch

Finally, it was time to board the flight and officially leave Patagonia. Both boarding and the flight went smoothly and we landed in Buenos Aires with plenty of layover time to make our next flights.

Taking off at Calafate Airport…

… and heading to Buenos Aires

Dinner in Buenos Aires was courtesy of the Star Alliance lounge (Delta lounge didn’t let us in and is not off the hook yet). By the time we boarded and took off, it was about 11:30 pm and we all slept on the plane for the night.

Anyone need a cart

See ya, riff raff

Almost made it to Miami

We arrived in Miami and checked our bags in to our American Airlines flight to Chicago. Just some hanging out in the Corona Beach House “lounge” and a flight to Chicago to go.

Good Morning, Miami!

Easier than hiking

Day 8: El Filo

by Joanna

Updated: April 9, 2023

1 Comment

We woke up on our last full day in Explora with a view of fresh snow on the mountains. We knew it would be a bit colder today so we prepared with more layers. Jo and Matt were going to hike El Filo while Mom and Dad were heading to Laguna Condor. Since the hikes start very close to each other, we were able to share the van.

Let’s go to El Filo today

While Matt and Jo started on El Filo, Mom and Dad had an easy(ish) hike to Laguna Condor (a second time for Dad). They drove only about another 30 feet to their starting point, and walked along a narrow trail over the lake. They spotted black neck swans in the lagoon and learned about the three variety of wild orchids that grow in the forests. When they returned to the hotel Dad officially retired his 25 year old hiking boots.

Mom enjoys the hike to Laguna Condor

Dad points at his boots for the last time

Meanwhile, Jo and Matt, along with our guide Amelia, started the hike in Los Huemules Conservation Reserve, walking up along a ridge. It started with about an hour of hiking up 2,000 feet. There were amazing views as we got higher and higher. There were two Cara Cara birds hanging out in the trees who followed us for a while.

Trickiest part of the trail with rope to help

View of Laguna Azul and Matt’s shadow

Hiking along the ridge line

Cara Cara Bird buddies followed us for a while

When we reached the lookout at the top of the El Filo (meaning the edge), we saw a condor and a view of the Electric Valley from above. Rather than going back down at that point, we decided to continue along the ridge for another hour, and another 1,000 feet up and past the snow line to get a full 360 view of the area. We hiked up past the snow line and felt a few flurries. Along the way, we could see the effect the glacier had on the rocks. Many were split and/or showed striations. The fall colors were still vibrant and some trees were starting to grow out of the few inches of soil covering the rocks.

This rock looks like a puzzle box

High enough to hike in snow

Can you tell whose shoes are whose?

At the top, we could see nearly all of the hikes we had been on earlier in the week including Laguna del Diablo (even the refuge), Laguna Azul and Verde, and Laguna Condor. We found a spot for a tea break and learned that the Diablo valley is called as such because the trees turn a bright red in the fall, and in the summer and spring, there are many red flowers covering the area.

Red valley, snow, and sun rays make for a pretty nice hike

Glacial rocks and our tea spot in the corner

Matt matches the trees

Always appreciate a tea break

Thanks for the guiding, Amelia!

We made our way back down the same trail, stopping to get more photos as the lighting changed. Our pace was pretty quick going down and it only took about an hour and a half. We eventually made it to the van and ended our last hike of the trip.

I feel like I’m being watched

Fractured rocks

Looking over Laguna Candor – I think I see my dad

Every step looked like this

Looking over Laguna Azul and El Diablo trail

We all met back at the hotel for lunch and to get ready to leave in the morning. Matt took advantage of his free massage at the spa and we all enjoyed relaxing in the lobby that we turned into our personal living room. At dinner, we celebrated finishing our trip that was 4 years in the making with some champagne.

Thanks for an amazing trip!

Tomorrow, we leave Explora for the airport at 9:30, and plan to make a quick stop in El Chaltén. Then, its flights back to Chicago and back to the real world.

Day 7: Laguna del Diablo

by Joanna

Updated: April 13, 2024

2 Comments

The morning greeted us with a beautiful sunrise. By now we have our morning routine perfected. We met our guide, Marcello and the other two guests on the full day hike to Laguna del Diablo. We started where we ended the Los Huemules hike on Day 3, but took the Diablo trail at the split.

Good Morning

Near the start of the hike

The majority of the trail followed the Diablo river surrounded by the vibrant fall colors and the Electric Mountain. Along the trail, we heard and saw some birds that Marcello could identify. We hiked about 4 miles with some inclines to a refuge overlooking Laguna del Diablo and the Cagliero glacier.

Pretty colors today as well

Dad points at lichen

We found an overlook of the river and valley

Marcello helps us identify birds

It had started to lightly rain, but we were mostly covered by the tall trees. We crossed the river on a wood bridge to get to the west side of the lake and glacier. The last few hundred meters to the refuge were open on a rocky glacial moraine.

Over the bridge to the refuge

Entering the moraine – AKA asteroid field

We arrived at the refuge and found a cozy spot by the fire place to eat our lunches. It was very nice to be able to eat inside while it started raining harder outside. The refuge also offered us beverages and dulce de leche crepes, so that was an awesome bonus.

Solar powered refuge

No need for camping chairs here!

The refuge had some early drawings

Once we were relaxed and full, we made our way back on the same trail. The return trip went pretty quick and we managed to avoid any heavy rain. The weather started to clear up for a while and we were treated to (continued) excellent views.

Glacial terminal moraine

Heading back into the woods

Windows 98, fall edition, is that you?

We stopped at some of the same lookouts from the way in as the views change slightly with the weather.

Looking back to where the refuge is

Thanks for the guiding, Marcello!

This dragon is disguising itself as a tree

This part of the trail has yellow trees

When we arrived back at the hotel, it had started to rain harder. We were happy to have made it to our favorite place – the bar – for some afternoon refreshments. Tomorrow is our last full day, so we had to pick our explorations carefully. Matt and Jo picked El Filo, and Mom and Dad picked Laguna Condor.

Recovering back at the hotel

Day 6: Laguna Condor

by Joanna

Updated: April 6, 2023

1 Comment

Matt’s hike wasn’t scheduled to leave until 9:15, so he had some extra time to sleep in. With the rest of us taking a rest day, we also slept in and had a leisurely breakfast. Matt was the only one schedule for his hike with Rosie as the guide. She mentioned that due to the rain last night and this morning, the hike was very muddy and slippery, and might not be the best or safest hike. They went over options and picked a different, shorter and easier hike, and Dad decided to join.

Today’s window view

What’s at the end of a rainbow?

Off to hike!

Mom and Jo spent some time in the morning enjoying the view from the lobby and relaxing, then went to the spa for some much needed yoga and stretching.

Very helpful stretching

On the hike, Matt and Dad went to Laguna Condor. The trail was over the river and through the woods with very old and mostly dead (but mostly alive). After a short hike, they arrived at Laguna Condor lake and a waterfall.

Start of the hike to Laguna Condor

That’s a big hole in the tree

Laguna Condor is starting to look like Rivendell

Looking south over Laguna Condor

Dude, where’s the Van?

Dad and Matt returned to the hotel at about 11:30 and we all spent some time relaxing before lunch.

Made it back!

Mom had a massage appointment while Matt and Jo went to try out the drone. Although it was windy, we managed to not only get it up and running, but back in one working piece.

Self-Guided afternoon exploration: Drones!

And we have lift off

Our view after the drone exploration

We continued our recovery day with some very well made drinks at the bar. The R&R seemed to work and we were ready to pick a full day hike for tomorrow to Laguna Diablo.

Same view, afternoon lighting

Excellent Bartending

Dad points

Before going to sleep, we checked if the skies were clear enough to see any stars. We were able to see some constellations like the Southern Cross and Orion and a faint view of the Milky Way.

Yes, that is Orion in the southern hemisphere

Stars from the back of the hotel

Stars from the front of the hotel

Day 5: Lagunas de los Tres

by Joanna

Updated: April 5, 2023

1 Comment

The sun was shining and the skies were clear by the time we finished breakfast. We set off with Eras and two other guests to the Lagunas de Los Tres hike. The hike started about 10 minutes from the hotel and were on the way. The hike was located in El Parque de los Glaciares, a 700,000 hectare area. The first 6 miles was relatively flat through the foliage. Along the way, we saw a humul having a snack, and could see the Fitz Roy range and surrounding mountains and glaciers.

Off we go!

Where is the ticket counter?

View of Fitz Roy and East Glacier

Dad points at an Andean deer

Because today was a clear day, many people were on the trail along with us, including another group from Explora that we caught up with a few times. There were also some good lookout points along the way, and even some where we could see our route in the distance.

More amazing views along the way

The trail in the middle of the red hill is our route

The main, and most difficult part of the hike was the 1 km, 1200 ft of elevation gain to get to the lake of Mt. Fitz Roy. We first crossed the Rio Blanco on a log bridge that led to glacial moraine rock field. We stopped to have a snack, refill water in the river, and get ready to make the ascent. We also may have asked how much was left in the hike too many times.

Crossing the Rio Blanco

We entered the forest where there were campgrounds and continued up. Much of the trail was an old river bed, with rocks of various sizes and slipperiness. We could see hikers way up at the top of the ridge for motivation, though eventually figured out that was not actually the top.

Up, up, up

Made it to the t—- nope, thats another ridge

We slowly and methodically made our way to the actual top for a stunning view of the Laguna at the base of Mt. Fitz Roy and the towers. After catching our breath we enjoyed lunch with a view.

Mom did not enjoy the climb

We all enjoyed the view

After taking in the view and nutrients, we started the steep decent all the way back down. Fortunately, many of the hikers had already either made their way up or came down before us, so there wasn’t too much traffic on the trail. Once we were back down, we found an area a little off the trail for another needed break. The route back to El Chaltén was another 6 miles along the trail, though mostly either flat or downhill.

Starting the descent

Careful on those steep parts

Bringing the chair was worth it!

The hike back provided some views of Fitz Roy from the other side. We looked back at where we were to find we had great timing as the towers had some cloud cover.

Happy the clouds showed up after we left

View of the valley on the way down

Near the end, we took a break at Laguna Capri to recharge for the last hour of hiking. We made it back to the van at our ending point and celebrated with snacks and drinks. The drive back took about 45 minutes and we arrived around 6:45. With 2800 feet of total ascent, 13 miles and 9 hours, we were ready to relax and have dinner. But first, we had to pick our hike for tomorrow. Mom, Dad, and Jo decided to take a rest day at the hotel tomorrow while Matt picked a hike.

I see El Chaltén!

Excited to pick a rest day

Day 4: Glaciar Vespigniani

by Joanna

Updated: April 3, 2023

2 Comments

The weather prediction for today was for rain in the entire valley. Given that, the guides last night were suggesting hikes around the hotel area, but since we have already done a few of those, we decided to go on a full day hike toward the Vespigniani Glacier, where there is a lot of tree cover. We met our guide, Rosie, at the map and were on the way.

First we drove about 45 minutes north to a dock on the Lago del Desierto. Along the way, we made a quick stop at a waterfall to stretch our legs and take some pictures. We hopped back in the van for a few minutes and reached the doc. Since the land in this area has been privatized, Explora partnered with a company called Exploradores for the boat ride and entrance to the hike. We spent about 20 minutes on the boat enjoying the view of the river, glaciers, mountains, and could even see the mountains in Chile.

Not listening to TLC’s advice

Second mode of transportation for the day

Pointing at Chile

As the name of the lake implies, Vespigniani Glacier is located in the Lago del Desierto region. There are two main trails that lead to a lookout of the Vespigniani Glacier. We choose the red route, which totaled only about 2 miles, but had some steep inclines. As promised, the forest was very green and full of trees that keep their leaves in the winter, creating a cover from the elements. We trekked up the mountain and made it to the lookout point with a 360 degree view of the glacier, valley, and surrounding mountain ranges.

Hiking the red route

Made it to the top — high sticks!

We were able to spend some time at the lookout and were lucky enough to hear and see an avalanche on the glacier.

The river view from the lookout

Group shot with the Vespigniani Glacier

Enjoying the area

We continued on the loop and started the descent to the starting point. Along the way, we saw a rainbow, the river shore, and more fall colors.

Rainbow Road

Dad is continuing his pointing streak

On the way to the lake

Tree canopy

We ate our lunches (I missed you canisters and Explora soup) under Exploradora’s Eco Dome and relaxed until the boat arrived. Please note: at this point, it still had not rained on us. When we boarded the boat and left, it had just started raining lightly, and we could see the low clouds and rain back in the direction of Explora. We reversed the route from the morning and made it back with plenty of time to relax before dinner. Once we returned to our rooms, it started pouring. Not only was the hike great, but we also definitely had good luck with the weather.

V for Vespigniani

I’m on a boat

Heading back south

Rainy afternoon views

The weather tomorrow should be sunny, so we planned the Tres de los Laguna hike, a long full day hike that should give us a clear view of Mt. Fitzroy and the surrounding towers.

Day 3: Los Huemules

by Joanna

Updated: April 3, 2023

1 Comment

The Explora lodge is located in the Los Huemules reserve, where our two hikes for the day were. This is also the same area where we did our short hike yesterday. Starting with breakfast, we got ready for the day and met our guide, Eros, at the map. As always, the hike was explained, and we learned that we will hike from the lodge along the Electric River, in the Electric Valley into a glacial moraine.

Breakfast Club

Eros points to our route

Fall colors on the Electic River

Charged up for the hike in the Electirc Valley

The total hike was about 10 km, there and back. The river was lined with trees changing color for fall, and the Fitz Roy mountains in the background. Along the way, Eros told us about the mushrooms, bushes, and wildlife droppings. Only Puma poop was seen, but still no pumas.

Is this a trail marker or Mt. Fitzroy art?

The view while hiking

Off the trail and onto the moraine

We made it to the top of one of the mounds in the moraine, looking out at the Marconi Glacier (yes, the radio guy) and Mt. Fitzroy. At that time, Eros brought out the tea and cookies, which we thoroughly enjoyed before making our way back to the lodge.

Marconi Glacier moraine valley – fin de senda

Brief Fitz Roy tower sighting

Of course, the end of the hike included passing by the BBQ house, with lamb already cooking. We had time to each lunch and relax before our second hike.

Looks like meat’s back on the menu, boys

Explora dining room

Soon enough, it was time to leave for the next hike. We met our guide Paula and the one other guest going on this hike. Paula explained that we would again leave from the lodge, but take a different trail to Laguna Azul. When we arrived, it was obvious how it got its name. We continued to Laguna Verde, which was, you guessed it, verde.

Yup, that’s definitely blue

Neither of these photos made it in the blog

On the way to Laguna Verde

Do you think this lagoon is envious of the bigger one?

The vegetation in the water is doing the heavy lifting for “verde”

Pato, Pato, Pato Vapor

After the lakes, we hiked further north, over the Rio Cañadon de Los Toros on a suspension bridge. We all made it across alive and finished the hike about a mile later.

Treebeard Cohen joined the group

No bears in Patagonia, but great post-hike beers

Prior to starting the afternoon hike, we had the forethought to book a hot tub for when we returned. We all spent some time relaxing before dinner. Tomorrow is forecasted to be rainy, so we are going on a hike in a different area that should have enough tree cover to keep us mostly dry-ish.

Day 2: Buenos Aires to El Chaltén

by Joanna

Updated: April 3, 2023

1 Comment

Today is the day we arrive at Explora! It all started when our pre-arranged airport shuttle driver picked us up right on time and promptly started driving to the wrong airport. Luckily, we noticed that he was going the wrong direction and changed course in time. We managed to get through the road construction and the airports crowds and found the right line (on the second try) to check our bags. Miraculously, we made it to the gate with enough time for coffee and breakfast. The concern about the lack of an airplane at the gate was quickly dispelled when we found out we take a bus to the plane.

This van is definitely going to AEP, right?

Just your average 6am check-in line

Made it on the plane!

Now approaching Patagonia

The flight went well and we landed in El Calafate on time where we met our Explora driver and the one other passenger. After about an hour and quite a few guanaco sightings, we stopped for lunch at an old Gaucho bar turned restaurant established in 1894. Once we were filled with empanadas, hot chocolate, and brownies we got back on the road for the last two hours.

Good views so far

Stayed awake and didn’t get dizzy

The only reason to turn the wheel is the high velocity winds

Dad: “Is that fresh?”

The terrain changed from flat, dry grasslands to giant picturesque mountains. A lookout of the mountain range was a convenient stop along the way, just before getting to the town of El Chaltén. We were able to see Mt Fitzroy and the surrounding peaks and glaciers. This is autumn in Patagonia, which means fall colors and high winds.

Watch out for flying guanacos

It’s a little windy

We all made it!

About 45 minutes past El Chaltén, a very small touristy outdoorsy town, we arrived at Explora — only about 48 hours after leaving home. The Explora Welcome wagon greeting us with drinks, hospitality, and room keys. As usual, the rooms have amazing views.

Room with a view

View

Since it was already 4:30, we didn’t have time for a full half-day exploration, but we were offered an 1.5 hour into hike around the property, which we quickly agreed to. Leaving right from the hotel, we walked about a mile towards the Los Huemules Reserve forest. Hiking through the trees, we saw various types of ferns, the ever important Calafate plant, and lagoons. Once we made it to the lookout, we enjoyed tea and cookies and then hiked our way back to the hotel.

Melissa explains the hike

And we are on our first exploration!

Into the Patagonian forest we go

First task was to find the spa. Next task was to freshen up and get a drink from the bar. All tasks were accomplished successfully. Before sitting down for dinner, we met with a guide to plan our next day. Given the fact we have 7 days to explore, we decided to start with two half days hikes – both of which will start from the hotel again. With that settled, we sat down for a delicious dinner and refueled. Every night, one of the menu options will be a traditional Argentinian asada, cooked in the smokehouse right next to the hotel. Tonight we had beef ribs and flank steak.

These sun rays smell like BBQ

We are all looking forward to a full night’s sleep and tomorrow’s hikes for our first full day in one place since Wednesday.

Day 1: Chicago to Buenos Aires

by Joanna

Updated: April 5, 2023

Day 12: SkyLodge to Chicago

by Joanna

Updated: April 1, 2023

4 Comments

Today we woke up in our crazy SkyLodge pod and enjoyed the sunrise view from the side of a cliff! The pod was a bit cold from the night – maybe mid-30s, similar to camping outside in the fall – but we quickly rectified that and warmed up with some tea thanks to the hot water provided in the thermos.

Alert! I have news from Day 11!

Hot tea to warm up in the pod

Geared up and ready to go

At 7am, we put on our harnesses and made the 10-minute climb back over to the dining capsule for coffee and breakfast with the rest of the group. We had fruit, bread, granola, and the guides even made us eggs.

You know, just a quick climb to breakfast

Morning view from the breakfast pod

Delicious breakfast banana rings

Dining pod has the cliff wall built in

After, we had about an hour of free time to go back to our pods, enjoy the view and get ready for the day. During this time the photographer stopped by and helped take some fun pictures and videos with the drone.

Chillin’ in the pod

Chillin’ on the pod

Pod window for fresh air

We got the top pod, one of the other pods can be seen below us

To get back down off the cliff, we took 6 zip lines. Our pod was the highest, so when it was time to leave, everyone met on our platform to climb a bit further up to get to the first zip line.

Bye pod! Heading up and out.

Waiting on our platform for the rest of the group

On the way to the first zip line

At about 10:30, we made it back down all in one piece and left right away for the Cusco airport. On the way, we were stopped by transport authority. I suppose our driver had the right papers since we were able to continue on.

Made it back alive!

Papeles?

We arrived back in the hustle of Cusco. Our flight wasn’t until 6:00, but others in our group had a flight at 1:40. We spent our time relaxing and people watching until our flight. Plus, we had to have one more Inca Kola.

Welcome back to Cusco!

Anybody need a hand cart? I know a great place…

Most of the day was spent in airports enjoying Peruvian classics

The flight went well and we made it to the Lima airport with plenty of time before our flight to Miami (so early, they had us wait 45 minutes before we could check our bags). Our Miami was a red-eye that departed at 11:45. Once we checked in, we got moved to the 2-seat exit row (woo!). We got some dinner at ChinaWok in the food court and made our way to the gate.

Exit row leg room!

“Made with Peruvian potatoes”

After a few hours of sleep, we arrived in Miami at about 6am, we went through customs (Global Entry is still the best), re-checked our bags, went back through security and made it to our gate with 20 minutes to spare before boarding our last flight to Chicago. We made it back home right on schedule. It was a wonderful trip that won’t be forgotten!