Hello from Tierra del Fuego!

Day 2: Te Anau

Updated: August 15, 2016

Need a good reason to get out of bed in the morning? Turns out, a helicopter ride over fiords is good motivation! After breakfast, we drove a couple of miles down the rode to Fiordland Helicopters where Kim Hollows, the owner/pilot, and his MD Hughes 500 (HJO) was waiting to take us for a ride.

Hey, look! It’s Jo’s helicopter.

Taking off was very exciting; we were on the ground and all of a sudden we were floating through the air. Within seconds, we were zipping over Lake Te Anau and I couldn’t help myself from going through the survival skills I learned from Hatchet.

Leaving the clouds behind

Entering Fiordland National Park

We flew over Te Anau to Fiordland National Park, breaking through the low clouds, and eventually landing on a fiord overlooking New Zealand’s largest fiord, Dusky Sound. The flight continued over ridges, along waterfalls, and over to Doubtful Sound before returning to Te Anau. The pictures can tell the rest of the story.

Cue the Howard Shore music

View from chopper

Find the deer!

This fiord is my stop.

Dusky Sound

Alpine lakes

Good view of tree lines

And here are a couple videos we shot during the flight as well:
Video 1 | Video 2 | Video 3 | Video 4 | Video 5

Following a Dramamine-induced nap, we headed out for our next adventure: glowworms. The glowworms are located in a cave across the lake, once again in Fiordland National Park, which required a ride in the Real Journeys Luminosa catamaran.

Getting on the boat

At 12,000 years old, the caves are actually quite young – too young even to have stalactites and stalagmites. There is, however, rushing water, which erodes the limestone and continuously changes the structure of the cave. The Maori name Te Anau means “swirling cave of water.”

Learnin’

Ducking through some parts of the cave, we walked a couple hundred feet to a boat landing. We sailed in complete darkness to the Glowworm Grotto, where the walls and ceilings were scattered with the tiny lights from the glowworms.

Back outside in daylight, we took a short nature walk and learned a bit more about glowworms, the area, and the native bird species.

Once upon a time, the fightless takahe bird didn’t have much to worry about. Their best defense mechanism was to stand still and be “vewy, vewy, quiet.” European explorers came and accidentally left a whole bunch of rabbits. In the 1880s, New Zealand introduced stoats (aka. weasels) in order to control the rabbit population. The stoats said, “Why the heck should I chase the rabbits, when I can eat this delicious bird standing still right over here?” As of today, stoats are public enemy number one, and the takahe is critically endangered, but hanging in there.

Actual size and look of a takahe

Not actual size of a takahe.

Our third main event of the day was the Te Anau Illumination Festival. Everybody gathers in the town center (ya know, that one main road) where the stores and businesses turn off their lights, and turn on twinkling/Christmas lights. Then the crowd is led down the road by Glowy the Glowworm (three people in a makeshift Glowworm costume) to the lawn of the Distinction Hotel where there is a fire show.

Glowy the Glowworm and Lighty McLightPants

I think we saw this on Game of Thrones

We continued onto the shore where everyone released Chinese wish lanterns into the air. Well, most people released them into the air. Some people released them into the trees.

We successfully launched our lantern

The day concluded with dinner at the hotel, a quick review of tomorrow’s plans, and, of course, more local wine. See ya then!

Day 1: Te Anau

by Joanna

Updated: July 21, 2016

2 Comments

We made it! Our flight from Chicago was delayed by an hour and a half, and we were pretty worried that we would miss our connection in LA. Turns out both American Airlines flights were the same plane. However, that meant the flight from LA to Auckland was delayed as well, making it a tight connection for our Air New Zealand flight to Queenstown.

Welcome to New Zealand. Hold that plane!

After a quick jog (literally) from the international terminal to the domestic terminal, we made it to the gate in time. The flight from Auckland to Queenstown was pretty short, and we got some great views.

Flying over the South Island

Fun Fact: While we were remiss to not see the Tolkien-themed Air New Zealand safety video (at least the jetway was Hobbit-themed), we were impressed by their new Men in Black-themed rap video performed by members of the New Zealand All Blacks rugby team (Get it? All Blacks, aka. Men in Black).

Mountains!

Finally in Queenstown, we picked up our bags, got the rental car and were on our way. The first 10-15 minutes of driving on the other side of the road was a bit unnerving, but Matt got the hang of it and the rest was smooth sailing to Te Anau. Pro Tip: Whenever you see an approaching vehicle, yell “LEFT” to overcome the urge to bail to the right.

Ready to hit the road

Stay left!

No longer bound by flight connection times, we stopped for a snack at a place called Five Rivers Cafe, where there was a farm right out the back door. I wanted to pet the miniature horse, but the sign said he bites, so I thought better of it.

On the road again, we stopped a few times for pictures and to amaze at the sheer number of sheep along the highway. Seriously, we’ve seen a lot of sheep. And it’s only day one.

Sheeeeep

We also stumbled upon a Wilderness Scientific Reserve which, according to the sign, is an area of unusual shrubland (not an area with rodents of unusual size) that mimics what an ecosystem may have looked like 10,000 years ago after the first ice age. A harsh environment with freezing temperatures, stony soil, moss, lichens, and other colorful plant species. You know, like Wisconsin.

Joanna is lichen the view

Red rocks

Why are we the only ones here. This place is a moss-see.

Where is everybody? This place is a moss-see!

Eventually, we arrived at the Te Anau city center (which is about three streets) and the shore of Lake Te Anau. You guessed it: another great view.

On the shore of Lake Te Anau

Pulling into the Bella Rosa Bed and Breakfast, we were greeted by our host, Gill, and her co-host, CoCo (the dog). Gill showed us around, let us settle in, and gave us local wine, beer, and cheese. A much appreciated welcome after roughly 30 hours of travel.

Local beer, cheese plate, and planning

We chatted with Gill for a while and she gave us some suggestions on restaurants and other places to visit on our trip. We then put on a few extra layers, and took a walk into town. stopping by the grocery store to stock up on trail mix, dried fruit and other snacks. The night sky is pretty incredible without all the light pollution of a city. We could even see the Milky Way.

Milky. Way.

If all goes according to plan, and these wifi upload speeds get their act together, tomorrow we will have another installment. Same Bat-time, same Bat-channel.

Prologue: Journey to NZ

by Joanna

Updated: October 4, 2016

2 Comments

Hello travel blog followers!

As we embark on this journey, we invite you to come along with us. Check back daily for some information, pictures, and perhaps even a video about where we have been. We will let you know where in New Zealand we are, and what adventures we are going on. For those of you playing along with “Where in Middle Earth are Matt and Joanna?” we will be sure to keep you posted.

This is the map. Most of these places are real.

Above you will find a map which highlights some of the main cities we will be visiting on our trip. The journey will begin with a layover in Auckland, a flight into Queenstown, and a drive to Te Anau (on the left side of the road!) where we will be spending three nights. Look out for fjords, glaciers, and glowworms. After that, we will head to Queenstown for some wine, mountains, and horses. An overnight dog sledding trip will be next, followed by star gazing and hiking at Mt. Cook. We will hike Mt. Sunday (or Edoras for you LOTR fans) before heading back to Auckland and Hobbiton for the last two days.

I hope you enjoy our blog. If not, just stop reading. Feel free to leave comments about my awesome writing, how great the trip is, how you wish you were here, etc., etc.

Day 14: Hong Kong

by Matt

Posted: June 17, 2012

2 Comments

Today began with a 6:30AM wake-up call and some final packing maneuvers before we headed upstairs for one last tasty Hyatt breakfast. We also successfully remembered to return the entire Daniel Craig portion of the business center’s DVD library (which we had rented).

Forks down, we picked up our bags and headed to the lobby. Nicole arranged a taxi to take us to the airport at 8:30AM. On the way toward Lantau Island, we got a couple long-distance views of downtown Hong Kong to make up for yesterday’s rainout.

Quick glance at Victoria Harbor and Hong Kong Island on the way to the airport

At the airport, I paid the cabbie with all the Hong Kong dollar bills and coins left in my pockets, which was the exact right amount (including a tip). We have become very proficient at using up all our local currency to avoid a trip to the exchange window. (Not as satisfying as the BK Chicken sandwich and the DQ sundae for the EXACT amount of Baht we had left in Thailand, but still.)

Using a luggage cart is complete cultural immersion

Feeling adventurous, we decided to use the self check-in kiosk rather than wait in the Cathay Pacific economy check-in line. Typically, we just stand in line with everybody else because it avoids any troubles with checking bags for international travel, especially if the machines (and the people helping you use them) are interfaced via a foreign language. But seeing as how everything worked great this time, we’re happy to add the international self check-in machine to our traveling repertoire.

A Cathay Pacific 777 is ready to take us home

The flight took off on Sunday at 11:50AM local Hong Kong time and landed at O’Hare about 13 hours later at 1PM CT… still Sunday. So dads, take pleasure in the fact that we have been able to celebrate your Father’s Day about 150% longer than usual!

Back under friendly Chicago skies… Just me or do those clouds say “Hi”?

And now, the trip is complete!

Day 13: Hong Kong

by Matt

Updated: June 17, 2012

Day 12: Hong Kong

by Nicole

Updated: June 16, 2012

2 Comments

This morning we slept in and ate a delicious Regency Club breakfast while overlooking Tolo Harbor. Having done most of the main tourist-y things on our last visit, we decided to spend the afternoon wandering through several area markets. We took the train to Kowloon and started at the Flower Market, which was nowhere near as crowded as Bangkok’s but still loaded with all manner of flowers, plants, and herbs.

Waiting for the next MTR train to downtown

Small section of Flower Market Road

Fake flowers available as well

Next up was Yuen Po Street Bird Garden, a lovely little garden that also serves as a space for traders to sell birds. Birds of all kinds were available to buy, ranging from small songbirds to exotic colorful macaws, as well as cages and every imaginable accessory.

Get your birds here

What makes it "anti-stress"?

We made our way through the crazy traffic to Fa Yuen Street, a long stretch of shops and stalls selling clothes, shoes, housewares, produce, and other odds and ends. Not much worth buying here, although we did ponder buying new iPhone cases for a bargain price of three bucks. We stopped at McDonalds for a drink and so Matt could check out their pie menu for new flavors (only apple here, boo), then walked on to the Goldfish Market. This is one of Hong Kong’s oldest markets, and the vast number of pet stores lining the street sell fish, turtles, lizards, tarantulas, and other exotic animals.

Lots of buses, cars and people

Coke freeze makes Nicole happy

Stock up your aquarium at the Goldfish Market

Tired and still feeling the effects of whatever we picked up in Cambodia, we called it quits on the sightseeing and took the train back to the hotel. For dinner we took full advantage of the Regency Club’s complimentary hors d’oeurves and cocktails, eating delicious snacks and reading newspapers in the very comfortable lounge for almost three hours. Taking further advantage of our room amenities, we checked out movies from the business center and watched ‘Quantum of Solace’, enjoying a pleasant, quiet evening in our awesome room.

We sort of ignored this MTR policy

Looking south from the Hyatt Regency Club deck

Thankfully they aren't running war drills, right?

One more day to go… 🙂

Day 11: Siem Reap/Hong Kong

by Nicole

Updated: June 15, 2012

4 Comments

After one more delicious breakfast, we said our farewells to the awesome staff at the Golden Banana and met David for one last tuk-tuk ride to Siem Reap’s airport. Today was a day of transit – Siem Reap to Hong Kong via Bangkok.

Is dragonfruit the Rodney Dangerfield of tropical fruits???

Bon Voyage! Back to Bangkok we go...

From now on, when I see people gang-tackling a horse, I'll think of the Siem Reap airport

The ATR 72 is a rare passenger plane that boards from the back

Sailing over the Cambodian countryside

Snapshot of the ATR 72 propeller in flight

Plane day = plain photos

We had a short one-hour flight to Bangkok on Bangkok Airways, which was the only plane I’ve been on where I boarded at the back. After checking in for our Hong Kong flight, we endured the sweltering Bangkok airport by brilliantly pulling chairs directly in front of a gigantic air conditioner. During our five-hour layover, we spent the last of our Thai baht on Burger King and Dairy Queen (yeah, that’s right :)) and finished a blog to pass the time.

Close to the day's destination... Hong Kong

After another pleasant Cathay Pacific flight to Hong Kong, we deliberated over taking public transportation vs. a taxi to the hotel. Too tired to deal with lugging luggage, we chose taxi and headed for the taxi line, expecting a mob scene as has been par for the course at all other giant Asian airports we’ve visited. Instead, we were delighted to find the taxi line to have exactly ZERO people in it, and thirty minutes later we arrived at the Hyatt Regency Sha Tin.

Here we are passing the slow bus we considered taking to the Hyatt. Good call taxi!!!

We checked into our lovely suite (THANK YOU, MOM AND DAD!) and settled in for the night, researching things to do during our two days here. (However, this room is so nice we may just hang out here instead! :))

Day 10: Siem Reap

by Nicole

Updated: June 14, 2012

3 Comments

This morning we felt much better and lounged around the hotel until mid-afternoon, when we once again met our tuk-tuk driver David (who, as it was becoming clear, was our personal driver :)) and set out for more temple trekking.

Our mission was to see nearly everything in Angkor Thom (‘Great City’), which is a gigantic, 2200-plus acre plot of Cambodian jungle surrounded by a tall square wall and 100-meter wide moat. Entering the complex, we were greeted by immense gates topped with large stone faces of the Angkor King responsible for the city’s construction.

After another ten minutes of driving (seriously, this place is huge), we came to the center of the city featuring several important structures comissioned by Jayavarman VII, the Angkor King referenced above. But one stands out as his crown jewel: the Bayon Temple.

Approaching Bayon

Jayavarman VII was a humble guy

From a distance, Bayon looks a bit like a pile of rubble, but that changed when we stepped inside. On the first and second levels, there are impressive bas-reliefs with over 11,000 figures carved into the stone (many depicting everyday life in 12th-century Cambodia).

Climbing through the temple

But the third level is where it got awesome – 54 towers decorated with 216 enormous smiling faces (said to bear a resemblance to the king Jayavaraman VII, the king responsible for nearly everything in Angkor Thom).

The third level gives you a good look at the faces

Plenty of apsara dancers as well

We win the guide book cover game again!

Everywhere we looked the faces were visible, some looking down on us from up high and some at eye-level. From the perspective of a 13th-century Khmer peasant, there would be no doubt in your mind that Jayavaraman VII was a god.

I would not be surprised if they paid monks to walk around and make pictures better

Despite this winning smile, Olmec beat him out for the Legends of the Hidden Temple job

Faces' profiles holding up pretty well after 800 years of Cambodian jungle weather

Traditional dance performers hanging out

Next up was Baphuon, a ‘jigsaw puzzle’ of a temple (its restoration was interrupted during the Khmer Rouge years, all records were destroyed, and experts were basically left with 300,000 pieces to put back together). We didn’t realize it, but this must be an active temple because I was not allowed in wearing my shorts and tanktop. Matt made a quick pass through while I walked around the perimeter, admiring the giant banyan trees that surround it.

Looking down the raised causeway at Baphuon temple

Restored columns under the causeway

View from the top (almost) of Baphoun

After Baphuon, we wandered north through the jungle to Phimeanakas (‘Celestial Palace’), a small temple near an area that once housed the royal palace, and climbed its long staircase to check out the view.

Plenty of non-temple ruins to see walking to the next temple

Phimeanakas lore was definitely the king's idea. Wikipedia it.

Another shot for the "What's liability insurance???" gallery

We walked on to the Terrace of the Elephants, a long causeway that once held large audiences for public ceremonies, and at the Terrace of the Leper King, our guidebook led us to a hidden ‘terrace within a terrace’ below the main outer wall with four tiers of gorgeous carved apsaras that have been beautifully preserved.

Terrace of the Elephants (distance) and Leper King (foreground)

Behind a false terrace wall is the original terrace wall of the Leper King

Prasat Suor Prat (‘Temple of the Tightrope Dancers’) is a series of twelve large towers that served dual purpose: tightrope performances for the king, and public trials: the two parties in dispute were made to sit in each tower, and whoever got sick and died first was (obviously) guilty.

Twelve Prasat Sour Prat (or tightrope-walker towers) were also used for public trials

Tired and SO sweaty, we found our driver (napping under a tree again) and went to Phnom Bakheng, where everyone goes to watch the sunset over Angkor Wat. We climbed the hill alongside a circus of tourists, but once at the top, we decided it wasn’t cool enough to wait another hour before sunset and walked back down.

Genius!

You can ride elephants up Phnom Bakheng

After one more stop at Angkor Wat to take some pictures in the evening light, we drove back to the hotel for drinks and dinner, stopping by the night market to do a little more haggling. Our hotel, the Golden Banana, was so fantastic we didn’t feel the least bit bad about not seeing any of Siem Reap besides it and Angkor; we wanted to stay another month. It’s one of the best hotels we’ve ever visited. 🙂

Angkor Wat in the distance from Phnom Bakheng

Cambodia was awesome. It’s terribly hot in summer (or all the time), you get covered in dust, the roads kind of suck, and it’s pretty dirty, but the people are incredibly friendly, it’s SO cheap, the food is great, we felt very comfortable navigating around the cities, and Angkor is one of the most impressive sights we’ve ever seen. We’d return in a heartbeat.

Tomorrow it’s off to Hong Kong for the last leg of the trip!

Day 9: Siem Reap

by Nicole

Updated: June 13, 2012

2 Comments

This morning we woke up, assessed our health, and decided we were feeling well enough to have some breakfast and go see the temples of Angkor. We hired a tuk-tuk and headed off into the (blazing) midday sun.

Basically, this place is massive. Of the hundreds of temples that make up Angkor, we started at Angkor Wat (‘temple that is a city’). The most famous temple of Angkor is also the best-preserved as it was never abandoned to the elements. To reach the actual temple, you first must cross a huge rectangular moat and pass thru an outer wall, encompassing over 200 acres of land where the city that supported the temple once existed.

Angkor Wat's western entrance is a stone causeway over the moat

Inside the outer wall (which is 2.2 miles long)

Very old stairs

Apsara figures dominate Angkor Wat's stone carvings

Approaching the temple

Angkor Wat contains three stories, each enclosing a square of intricately linked galleries. Surrounding the outside of the first story is an amazing series of bas-reliefs, which describe important events in Khmer history.

Detailed bas-reliefs cover the first ring of the temple

We wandered through the galleries and made our way up to the second story; unfortunately we weren’t able to climb the steep staircase up to the third level. Crowds were incredibly light – we practically had the grounds to ourselves.

Advance to level 2!

You have reached level 2!

You did not reach level 3. Try again!

Everywhere you look there is incredible detail carved into the stone; Angkor Wat features over 3000 apsaras (heavenly nymphs), complete with 37 different hairstyles. 🙂 Thousands of myths, legends, signs, and symbols are seen around the temple, some serving as protectors or purifiers. Many of the carvings were damaged by previous attempts to clean the temples with chemicals in the 1980s, but a large restoration project is underway.

Yeah it's hot

Overheated (why did we decide to come here at noon again?) and still a little wobbly from our tummy issues the day before, we weren’t feeling the best but decided to press on to another one of the area’s highlights: the tree-locked temple of Ta Phrom. The most atmospheric of all the temples of Angkor, it has been swallowed by the jungle, its towers and walls consumed by the vast root systems of the gigantic trees that surround it.

Build your own ancient temple

Banyan trees took a liking to the central sanctuary at Ta Prohm

Banyan tree + 600 years = good photo op

Temple is in better shape than we are in this photo

After an abbreviated tour of Ta Phrom, our shaky state of health deemed our day of touring over. We shuffled past the many children selling bracelets and postcards at the temple entrance, found our driver napping under a tree, and drove back to the hotel for some much-needed air-conditioning and pool time.