Day 15: Serengeti to Ngorongoro Crater

Waking up today, we have officially logged three nights at Nyumbani Camp, which — fun fact — is the longest we have stayed in one place consecutively on this entire trip. And three will remain the maximum because today we venture onward to our next destination. But more importantly, Matt was feeling much better this morning and ready to take another stab at a timelapse sunrise shot with the Osmo Pocket.

Here comes the Sun

We finished packing our bags, called for our security escort, and arrived at the main tent for breakfast. After powering up for the day, we loaded the trucks and departed at 7:30am as planned. We headed southeast, where we will leave Serengeti National Park, re-enter the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and eventually reach the Ngorongoro Crater by late morning.

Goodbye Nyumbani staff

Safari Day 5 drive (detail)

It was a long drive with a few rest stops along the way. There aren’t a lot of different washboards — er, I mean roads — to pick from when planning your travel in the Serengeti, so this was the same route we drove a few days ago (heading the other direction). However, this time, it was earlier in the day and there were no rain showers, so we saw a few more animals on the route, including lions, baboons, and the usual topi, gazelle, etc.

Whoever introduced Christianity here… stellar job

Ready to see more animals

Try all the Fantas!

Eventually, we reached Ngorongoro Crater and checked in at one of the three entrances you can use to enter the park and drive down to the bottom. When we reached the crater floor, we immediately saw a bunch of animals. Because the crater is relatively small, there are a lot of species that have learned to live peacefully together that may not otherwise enjoy each other’s company in larger spaces. We saw many zebras, gazelles, and wildebeests together. Hyenas were waiting around lions. Flamingos, cranes, and egrets filled the shore.

One does not simply walk into Ngorongoro crater

Flamingoes. Not sure which type – sorry, Oscar

Blue heron takes flight

A dazzle of zebras

One of the animals we hadn’t seen yet was the rhino. They are not found in the Serengeti and there are only 27 left in the crater. We drove to where one might be, and were lucky enough to spot it.

Found a rhino!

Having completed the Big Five, and feeling hungry, we got our lunches in the car to start eating as we drove to the designated lunch spot. Before we got there, we saw some very lazy and full lions hanging around the road. They had a half eaten water buffalo carcass near them. Some of us originally thought it was a zebra because we saw stripes. Turns out those were ribs.

Passing out bag lunches to the other car

Open road

Ostrich

Lunch was at a hippo pool where we were able to get out and walk around. Since we ate most of our lunches in the car already, we bought ice cream from a zebra-painted snack truck and stretched our legs for a while. From there, we drove up out of the crater to our lodge for the night.

Group shot at the lunch spot

This is where we are

Hanging around the lake

Having a great time

No clouds blocking the Crater view today!

The road to Tortillis Camp was again not paved and we all received a free “African massage.” It also made for great napping. The lodge is at about 9,000 feet, which meant it was also a bit colder here. When we pulled up, we were welcomed with another rendition of Jambo Gwana, this one specific to the lodge and the crater.

Following the song, we entered the lodge and were served juice and samosas to enjoy during our briefing from the lodge manager. Completing your samosa earned you WiFi.

Our “Oldupai” tent… Maasai for “the place of the wild sisal plant”

Our room for the last night

We had time to settle in and relax before Juma and Aidano joined us for our last dinner. Juma and Aidano’s fun “Odd Couple” dynamic was once again on display as Aidano sat quietly at one end of the table trying to stay warm under a cozy Maasai cloak, while Juma held court at the other end, eyes lighting up telling stories about animals, his aversion to snow, and his parents. He joked Lily and Melanie were more than welcome to come back to Tanzania, but the rest of us, well, probably too old.

The dinner itself was buffet-style, after a first course featuring cream of banana soup, which was very tasty. These Tortilis Camp guys must also know how to party because Emily ordered a gin-based drink and they gave her the entire 250ml bottle.

Dinner with Juma and Idano

Near the end of dinner, the entire staff started singing songs and dancing in the dining room as a celebration of our trip and an a goodbye. Juma joined in the festivities and sang along with the group.

No longer cold after his cardio workout, Juma re-joined us at the table for last questions and stories. We hung out until we got too tired and went back to our tents to sleep. The staff gave us hot water animals to help keep us warm throughout the night and noted our requests for when we wanted hot showers in the morning… 5:45am please! Thanks!

Tomorrow we leave early, have a long day of driving, go for one last game drive, and then fly back home.

PS. Animals seen today:

• Lion
• Baboons
• Topi
• Gazelle
• Giraffe
• Common Waterbuck
• Impala
• Zebra
• Wildebeest
• Water Buffalo
• Flamingos
• Stork
• Ibis
• Hippo
• Lizard
• Egyptian Goose
• Cranes
• Water Starlings (on Zebra backs)
• Warthog
• Hyenna
• Elephants
• Vultures
• Rhino!!!! BIG FIVE FREQUENT DINING CARD COMPLETE!
• Kori Bustard