Day 14: La Rosiére

It’s our fourth Tour de France day! Today the 11th stage of the race starts in Albertville and works it’s way eastward to the ski station of La Rosiére. The fun part about this stage is we (ok, mostly Matt) already biked portions of the route. On Monday, we biked from Areches to Bourg Saint-Maurice, passing over the Col du Pré and the Cormet de Roselend. Today, Matt and the others will bike from Bourg Saint-Maurice up to La Rosiére to watch the end of the stage. I’ll hike into town with Eileen and watch the race come through at the base of the climb.

2018 Tour de France Stage 11 map

Due to traffic and road closures, we parked the van a bit outside of Bourg Saint-Maurice, at the base of the 18 kilometer (~11 mile) climb to La Rosiére. La Rosiére is familiar because on Sunday we passed through the resort town on our ride to and from Col du Petit Saint Bernard. Today the Tour is taking a different (and slightly steeper) route thru Montvalezan to reach La Rosiére — which will also be the route Matt and the gang are headed up.

When the Tour shuts down automobile traffic


Biking through Montvalezan before TDF madness


Just two guys who totally look like seasoned cyclists heading up to La Rosiére


Winding up the mountain above Montvalezan

While Matt and the others trudged their way up almost 5,000 feet on two wheels, Eileen and I stayed on two feet and walked from the van to Bourg Saint Maurice. We found the restaurant where we had lunch on Sunday, and Eileen managed to use her French to make us a reservation before we set off on a walk.

Our path took us from Bourg Saint Maurice to Séez, the next town on the route. Plenty of camper vans and cars were getting ready for the race. When we got to the end of the town, we turned around and walked back to the restaurant in time to meet Dave and Phil.

Meanwhile, Matt was riding to the top, along with Paul and Jason to watch the race. During lunch, Dave called Paul, who confirmed that Matt was “sitting under a tree, drinking a beer,” so I knew he was safe and happy.

Fans watching the race on the big screen down the hill


Mountain bleachers


Biking up that pink portion suuuuuucked!


Access to finish line is limited on race days, but I got within 250 meters


Dehydration and heat exhaustion, but with a view!!!


All better. Exactly as Jo imagined

When we finished lunch, Dave and Phil moved inside to watch the Tour on TV, while Eileen and I found a good spot outside. Matt, Paul, Jason and Martha descended to various portions of the steepest part of the climb (ranging from 4-6km from the finish line) to watch the race.

We saw another sponsor parade and scored some more TDF SWAG. I successfully caught some candy and snacks and stashed them for later. By comparison, it sounded like Matt’s catches up the mountain might have been vital for his survival (ok, slightly over-dramatic) and apparently his Goldbears/meat snack things were consumed ASAP!

Yellow jersey stuffed lion car


Watching the race in Bourg Saint Maurice


Matt waiting for the race up on the mountain


“You remember what color we are supposed to use there?”

Finally, the racers passed though. The earlier part of today’s stage included some very difficult climbs (including the Col du Pré and the Cormet de Roselend that Matt biked on Monday), causing the riders to be pretty spread out. After most packs of riders passed us in the town, we returned to the restaurant to watch on TV. Then the race turned uphill where Matt, Paul, Jason and Martha had camped out in various spots. Here’s a video from Matt’s spot as Team Sky passed him on the mountain: Video

My roadside view about 5k from the top


Greg Van Avermaet has the yellow jersey on, but is going to lose it shortly


Not a stage for Sagan, but he’s ok with the other sprinters

Once the race finished, Dave and Phil biked back to the van, while Eileen and I walked. The four watching from the mountain started to make their way down with the throngs of people and bikers. Paul, Jason and Martha were diverted to the main road down the mountain (the route we descended on Sunday), but Matt was already headed down the actual race route through Montevalezan, where he and hundreds of other bikers needed to wait about 20 minutes for Mark Cavendish to pass through, far behind the peloton. Spoiler alert: Cavendish didn’t make the time cut and was ousted from the race.

Waiting for Cavendish to get the green light

Paul and Jason made it back first, followed by Matt and Martha about 20 minutes later (thanks, Cavendish). The race finished atabout 5:30pm and we arrived back to the Chalet at about 8pm. We settled in and devoured another delicious dinner. Tomorrow we have an early start as we will bike/hike the epic Alpes d’Huez and watch Stage 12 of the Tour.

Day 13: Col de la Croix Fry

It’s another Tour de France Day! Today, the tenth stage of the race begins in Annecy, where it heads south and east around the lake before going up a small category 4 climb and passing through Thōnes. Our plan is to bike the category 1 climb from Thōnes to Croix Fry in the morning before they shut down the roads, and then watch the race pass over the Col.

2018 Tour de France Stage 10 map

As usual, the varsity team opted for a warmup ride over the Col du Marais, which starts to the south in Saint-Ferréol. But warmups are for wimps, so Matt and I put our pedals to the road at the base of the climb in Thōnes. Just kidding. Those guys are just really good at cycling. We’ll be good with our 12.8 km (8 mile) ride from the bottom to the top.

Applying sunscreen is no joking matter

The top of the Col has an elevation of 1,467 meters (about 4,813 feet) so that won’t be as large a factor as our previous rides. However, some of the gradients on certain portions of the route are pretty tough — some as high as 13 percent — which is why it has that catgory 1 designation. This Col has been used in the Tour de France a few other times, most recently in Stage 19 of the 2013 Tour.

Heading up from Thōnes


Biking thru village of Manigod


Switchbacks above Manigod are legit


View to the south

Because the Tour was scheduled to pass thru in a few hours, the road was lined with extremely fun and supportive fans who cheered us on through the end. One couple we spoke to said we should come back and hang out at their chalet (next time!). Matt cycled up the entire time, while I honestly took more of a hike with my bike.

Tour fans cheer all the amateurs up the mountain


Showed up exactly when I needed more water


One of the final turns near the top

The view from the top was stunning. After grabbing a sandwich, we found a great spot on a hill to watch the Tour pass over the Col. As an added bonus, we found two “unused” chairs to chill in. Well, at first there were three chairs, and we assumed they must be reserved. But then we saw some random dude grab one of them, so we figured hey, let’s get in on that!

Hungry from the biking


Upgraded seating


Hydration is important for EVERYBODY

Turns out, that sponsor parade we experienced in Sarzeau and Lorient follows the entire stage, not just the start and finish. But we certainly didn’t want to give up our spot, or carry back too much junk, so we opted out of participating in the melee after we scored a pack of gummy bears and let the kids grab the rest. Fun fact: In the middle of the race, the parade cars drive much faster, and the thrown goodies become semi-dangerous, high-velocity projectiles.

Wanna gummy bear? They’ve been in my pocket for a while, so they’re real warm and soft

From our vantage point, we could see the riders coming down the road, and since they were climbing a 7 percent grade, they weren’t going quite so fast. Of course, “fast” is the relative term here given that they were probably biking uphill as fast as I descend. Here’s a video of the first rider over the Col: Video

Riders go over the Col de la Croix Fry

Once the race passed, the barriers were removed and people on foot, in cars, and on bikes flooded the streets, making the decent back to the car rather difficult. The group agreed to meet at the van at 4:30pm and we made it back with 10 minutes to spare. Once the rest of the group came through (after riding a bit more through the town), we loaded up and headed back to the chalet. There was a bit of traffic due to the race, but we managed to make it back in time for our evening routine and another fantastic dinner.

Ready to bike down among the crowd


Loading up the bikes for the day

Tomorrow we’ll do another ride to watch the Tour. Or to be slightly more accurate, Matt will still be doing the cycling. Due to my difficulties biking in crowds and staying vertical when getting on and off the bike, I’ll happily take a break from biking and enjoy the day watching the tour with Eileen.

The M&Ms do help Jo feel better about her biking war wounds

Day 12: Col du Pré

Good news. We can still move after biking up a mountain yesterday, so let’s do a couple more! Today we bike the Col du Pré at 1748 meters (5735 feet) and then Cormet de Roselend at 1967 meters (6453 feet). Our exact route is a portion of the Stage 11 Tour de France route the riders will bike on Wednesday.

Dave hooks up the trailer


Preparing the bikes in Albertville

As with yesterday, the varsity team started the day several km farther out from the col in the city of Albertville. We got off on the next stop as Amy drove us to Areches, a village about 11 km from the base of the col at roughly 1000 meters elevation.

Arriving in Areches with Amy

Based on information from Dave — and cycling websites — we were aware that today’s route was going to be more challenging than yesterday. No kidding. Even though the climb from Areches to the Col du Pré is only 11 km, the average grade clocks in at about 9 or 10 percent with some sections cracking 13. When the Tour comes by here on Wednesday, the climb is classified as ‘HC’ which means it’s beyond the difficulty of their usual scale of five to one (one being hardest).

Jo powers up the first switchbacks above Areches


If you farm well, you get awards for your rafters, just like pro sports

I got off to a rough start and struggled with the switchbacks as they got steeper and steeper. There are absolutely no flat sections for any sort of relief, which made it trickier to gain any momentum to get back on the bike and clip in. When the support van passed, I decided it was best to get a ride to the top and get back on the bike for the next section. Meanwhile, Matt continued on the road and somehow pedaled all the way to the top.

Some serious switchbacks


Paparazzi getting shots of Matt on Col du Pré


Don’t worry Jo, some trucks can’t handle the switchbacks either


Good news, 2 km left; Bad news, 10.7% AVERAGE grade


That was insane, but… Mont Blanc! (mostly)

With everybody gathered together, we stopped for lunch at the top of Col du Pré. Matt and I smartly split a delicious salad and avoided tummy aches. After settling the check, everybody got back on their bikes (me too!) and descended to Lac de Roselend, where we passed over the reservoir dam.

Made it in time to steal a few bites from Jo’s salad


Our group and Lake Roselend


Route to Cormet de Roselend heads up on opposite side of lake


The most epic Paul photo

From Lake Roselend at 1557 meters, the route to Cormet de Roselend is roughly 8 km. Paul, Phil and Martha stayed on the road and knocked out the whole thing. Matt jumped out of the van to do the last 4 km to the summit. Jason and I took it easy in the wagon. The road was already filling up with camper vans for the Tour in two days, creating quite a fun atmosphere.

One left to go!


People already claiming their spots for Wednesday


The cows will have an excellent view too

Passing over the Cormet de Roselend, the next part of the ride was a long and technical decent down to Bourg Saint-Maurice. Although I descended well off Col du Petit Saint Bernard yesterday, I didn’t feel as comfortable with today’s slightly more death-defying route, so I continued my van adventure. Meanwhile, Matt cruised down the mountain on his bike (cautiously, of course).

Descending carefully… at up to 35 mph!


Doing my best to stay out of alpine ravines

We all met up at the bottom in Bourg-Saint-Maurice, which is the same city we descended to yesterday (from a different direction). From there, we all rode the same 15 km bike path back to the van waiting for us.

Hanging with the varsity team peloton

By the end of the day, Matt logged about 32 miles and almost 4,000 feet in elevation gain. Thank goodness we have several bottles of Cider left to drink upon our return to the Chalet. We relaxed, ate a delicious dinner of homemade ratatouille, and hung out with our biking compatriots into the evening before checking in for the night.

Day 11: Col du Petit Saint Bernard

So it begins. Today we biked the Col du Petit Saint Bernard, which lies on the border of France and Italy. The saddle of the pass lies at an elevation of 2188 meters (or 7178 feet) and the road is only open from May to October. Apparently, archeologists have found various objects that indicate humans have been using the pass since the Iron Age. Hopefully they won’t find us there someday.

Ready to roll (L to R: Phil, Martha, Jason and Dave)

After breakfast with the group, we loaded up the van with our gear and snacks and secured the bikes to the trailer. We drove about 30 minutes to the base of the Col du Petit Saint Bernard in the municipality of Bourg-Saint-Maurice. From here a portion of the group started up the mountain for the full 26km ride (the portion not named Matt and Jo).

Varsity team hits the road (L to R: Phil, Martha, Jason and Paul)

We stayed with Amy and the van for a bit longer and started our ride at roughly the halfway point of the mountain near the ski resort of La Rosière, which is where stage 11 of the Tour de France concludes on Wednesday.

Ready for the arrival of the Tour

Our ride was about 13km of 5-6% grade incline up to the summit, starting at about 1600m. A couple rest stops along the way to catch our breath in the elevation and we soon reached the top. The scenery was amazing, of course.

Helpful km markers with distance, elevation and grade


Looking back down at Bourg-Saint-Maurice


Heading up toward Italy


About 1-2km from the top


Final switchback


One mountain pass down!


It’s nice up here

At the top, we waited for the rest of the group to catch up. As suggested by Amy, our group proceeded to cross the border into Italy and take a cappuccino break — as one does in Italy. We were treated with beautiful views of Mont Blanc (most of it), the highest mountain in Europe, and the surrounding Alps.

Much better than the French cappuccino place


The hills are alive with drying laundry

The weather started to turn, so rather than descend into Italy (to La Thuile), we determined it would be a better plan to get back down on the French side to about 400 meters above sea level for lunch in Bourg-Saint-Maurice. The ride back down started with rain, but quickly warmed up.

Almost beat the weather off the col


Better weather descending thru La Rosière


Claiming a prime spot for Wednesday’s stage 11

It only took about 30 minutes to descend from the top back to Bourg-Saint-Maurice — despite riding the breaks the whole time. According to the bike-tracking app we downloaded, Matt hit a top speed of 35.8 mph (which can’t be right, can it?!?). After that adrenaline rush, lunch was delicious. Plus, the weather was sunny in the valley, which was perfect for the gathering throng of French soccer fans preparing for tonight’s World Cup Final.

Celebratory lunch Cokes


French soccer hooligans

After lunch, we rode along a 15km bike path (flat) to meet up with the van. The ride was very pleasant and the path followed a rushing river with plenty of kayakers, rafters, etc. We managed to keep up with the group (for the most part) and made it back in one piece, having survived the first day.

All together, Matt and I rode 35 miles on the day, including a gain of over 2,000 feet in elevation. When we got back to the Chalet, everybody ended up watching France beat Croatia in the World Cup Final, 4-2.

Back in Le Praz


Afternoon view from the chalet


Everything coming up Milhouse for France

Dinner again was once again fantastic and we were able to watch a recap of the ninth stage of the Tour de France over dessert. We hung out for a bit before getting to sleep. Another mountain to climb tomorrow, so hopefully we will be functional.

Day 10: Geneva/Courchevel

Now we begin France Trip Part 2: Crazy Biking Adventure! We won’t actually start biking until Sunday, but today we meet our tour group in the Geneva Airport, and head deeper into the Alps to our chalet in Courchevel.

We didn’t need to meet our Alpine Chaingang group until mid-afternoon, so we took advantage of the extra time to sleep in. We enjoyed a leisurely hotel breakfast and fixed the fancy espresso maker ourselves when it looked like there was going to be an interruption in the caffeine intake.

World Cup fever in the Ibis lobby

Since we practiced taking the train from the airport to downtown Geneva yesterday during our rental car return operation, we had no problem getting ourselves the opposite direction, back to the Geneva Airport.

That’s the train


Meet your cycling destiny here

At the airport, we found the Montreux Jazz Cub which was our designated meeting point at 2:30pm. We were a bit early and hung out while waiting for the others. Dave Beattie, the owner of Alpine Chaingang (and unmistakably a biker), soon arrived to greet us and help load our bags into his van’s trailer.

Bags (and bike bags if your not a bunch of novices!)

On the tour there are seven people. The five other participants are: Paul and Jason, two friendly gentlemen from Manchester who are seasoned cyclists and members of their local biking group called the “Northern Collective”… Martha, a triathlete and nurse from Cleveland… and Phil and Eileen, a couple from Scotland who are frequent guests on the ski trips Dave’s company runs here in the winter. Phil is a Royal Military engineering corps veteran and will be biking with us. Eileen is not biking, but may potentially be our best friend as she’ll be in the support van riding along. 🙂

No matter how things go from here, we tried a Royal with Cheese

The ride from Geneva to Courchevel was roughly two and a half hours, taking us back into France (our fourth border crossing in the last 24 hours, lol) and south toward Annecy and Albertville. The road became more mountainous and the temperature cooled off a bit. For the fist time on the trip, we saw some rain drops. But do not fear, from what we can gather on the weather apps, there are often rain showers on even the nicest of summer days in the Alps.

Heading to Courchevel

When we arrived at the chalet, Dave set up our bikes and spent about an hour helping us practice with them. Divvy bikes these are not. For starters, they are incredibly light. Also, these suckers use pedal clips. As predicted by literally everybody we talked to, both Matt and I fell over due to the clips on our first attempts (Matt made it until he attempted to turn about 30 yards away, while I made it about an inch).

With requisite impact injuries under our belts, we devised a series of mental rules to hopefully avoid the next ones. Rule 1: Remember to clip out before coming to a complete stop (or to be clear, before you even think about stopping). Rule 2: Failure to clip out is not an option.

For example, you might try to clip out and fail. Your brain will then say, “Hey, so I see that clipping out didn’t work, but that’s ok, let’s just move on to the next task of bringing this bike to a complete stop.” But your brain is an idiot and gravity is persistent. So with these concepts in mind, we managed to stay upright for the rest of our practice session.

Here’s hoping I can tame this beast


And these in particular!

After bike practice, we all met in the chalet common room to go over some general information for the week, and outline the specific plans for tomorrow. The more seasoned riders will start at the bottom of the Col de Petit Saint Bernard, while Matt and I will start a bit higher up. After tomorrow we will have a better idea of all of our levels so we can plan and adapt the rest of the rides.

Plan of attack (L to R: Jo, Martha, Paul, Jason, Phil and Dave)

Alpine Chaingang is a family business and Dave’s daughter Amy will be with us for the first few days as well. She’ll be our support van driver, chalet host, and chef. As far as the chef part is concerned, she already proved amazing, serving up a wonderful three-course dinner. This tour might be worth it for the accommodations and food alone.

Our chalet’s common room area


Very cool light fixtures

After dinner we relaxed in the common room for a while and heard Bastille Day fireworks in the distance. Checking in for the night, we are excited to see how tomorrow plays out on the bikes.

Day 9: Auvergne/Geneva

When we planned our epic drive across France to reach the Alps, we decided to forego chateaus and wineries (see yesterday) in exchange for today’s main event — a sunrise hot air balloon ride over the Auvergne Volcanoes Regional Park, which is located in the Chaine des Puys region of Massif Central in central France.

Waking up before dawn, we gathered with our fellow travelers, the pilots, and a very friendly Saint Bernard at 6am. We were happily surprised with cappuccinos and madeleines before lift off. We followed along as best as possible since the pilots didn’t speak much English. However, we did have a few people in our group who kindly translated the key information for us.

Saint Bernard oversees the setup

We lent the pilots a hand during the set up process, including getting the basket off the truck, unrolling and untying the balloon, and filling the envelope with air. Then the pilot fired up the burners to create a 160-degree difference between the air in the envelope and the ambient temperature, which was about 50 degrees. Here’s a video of the balloon prep: Video

Flying with a flamethrower


Now over 200 degrees in the envelope


How you rev the engine in a hot air balloon


Flight attendants prepare for take-off

After the balloon rolled to its upright position, we climbed into the basket and were ready to fly. Turns out hot air balloon rides are surprisingly smooth and don’t give us the same butterflies we might get on ledges, such as a 15-foot city wall in Port Louis. And since you are generally moving with the mild wind, it is quite peaceful and quiet. After rising up over Lac Chambon, we floated by the Chateau de Murol.

Floating peacefully in the morning


Chateau de Murol seems well fortified

From our view above, the area consists of cones and craters from volcanoes that erupted between 7,000 and 100,000 years ago. Over time, the area has eroded, leaving exposed granite and basalt. Volcanic ash acts as a fertilizer, which allows the land to be covered in grass. Today, the area mostly consists of farms.

Lac Chambon and surrounding area


Circular footprint of an old cinder cone


Those cows are thirsty

As the flight descended, our recovery truck was following nearby to retrieve the balloon after the wind and the pilot came to an agreement on the location. We braced for landing as instructed, but the impact wasn’t nearly as bad as they made it sound.

Let’s avoid the trees


Mayday! Mayday! Small thud. Never mind.

We landed in the front yard of a house next to a field. When the the lady who lived there drove up, she just cut around us on the grass because we were in her driveway. Completely unfazed by a giant balloon in her yard. We helped pack up the balloon much like a giant sleeping bag. Is it worth pondering that eight other random people helped pack up our balloon before we rode it? Nah.

World’s biggest sleeping bag

We finished loading up the balloon and were driven back to Lac Chambon. We were treated with a super official flight certificate and fun paper lantern hot air balloons.

Certificate confirms we lived

Having completed our hot-air ballooning mission in Auvergne, we walked back to the hotel to gather our bags and complete the last three hours of our drive to Geneva. We skipped the hotel buffet and the local cafes because we liked the options at the surprisingly nice freeway rest stops here in France. So long Auvergne… which based on our impressions, is pretty much the Wisconsin Dells of France.

Beverage menus don’t usually make the blog, but DAMMMMANNN!


Sorry Doritos, France has won the lady chips race


What have the Romans ever done for us?

By mid-afternoon, we crossed the border into Switzerland and found our hotel in downtown Geneva. Geneva is not the easiest city to drive through — back in the land of idiot motorcyclists and one-way streets that don’t appear to have much rhyme or reason. We finally parked in a nearby garage and checked into the hotel. Upon arrival, we were given free passes to use on public transportation and were told that we probably parked in the wrong place. Not wanting to venture out in the traffic again just to re-park, we decided to avoid the problem altogether and just take the car back to the airport a day early, and use the train passes tomorrow instead.

So, returning the car at the airport is easy, right? Well… about that. Geneva airport is located in Switzerland (mostly), but has a section that is legally in France. When we picked up the car in Paris and they upgraded us to a Mercedes, we agreed to drop it off on the French side to avoid a 400 euro fee.

To do this, we essentially had to cross the border back out of Switzerland and take a very hidden turn onto a road that enters the airport from France. A helpful Europcar agent in Geneva gave us the information we needed to complete this crazy maneuver and it all worked out. In retrospect, we could have probably avoided driving into Switzerland altogether, but hey, it was an adventure. Also, we will miss you, Mercedes.

France looks better defended than Switzerland

We walked through the airport — passing a border checkpoint back into Switzerland — and found the train station with ease. The directions weren’t explicitly clear which line to take because it’s more like Metra than the El, but with help from some friendly passengers, we made it back to the city center and our hotel.

We spent most of the night relaxing and catching up on the blog. We did venture out for some food and to see the Jet d’Eau in Lake Geneva (aka. The Buckingham Fountain of Lake Geneva).

Holy Cow burgers for dinner in the Mausolée Brunswick park


Southern end of Lake Geneva in the dusk

Tomorrow we can actually sleep in so we are pretty excited about that. Then our crazy biking tour begins. Wish us luck!

Day 8: Drive to Auvergne

If you are behind on blog posts, today is your lucky day! This is clearly the entry you should skip. It documents seven hours of driving halfway across France. Just think… you could browse back to two days of Tour de France photos and videos, but now you are about to get photos of car snacks. 🙂 Still here??? OK! here we go…

Breakfast is served


Afterwards, visit the Antidonterie

On our last morning in Port Louis, we returned to the boulangarie for a baguette traditionale. This time, we also correctly ordered a torsade (chocolate twist pastry). We continued to the Caucutts and ate breakfast with Nate, Alan and Hannah before saying goodbye.

Nate before coffee


Nate after coffee

We ducked inside a small convenience store and stocked up on some car snacks before heading out for our seven-hour drive to Auvergne.

French car snack stamp of approval #1


French car snack stamp of approval #2

We stayed on the tollroads and freeways, but at least our route did take us through parts of the Loire Valley, which were quite picturesque. Our apologies to fans of vineyards, chateaus and Leonardo da Vinci for not spending more time here.

Doesn’t look like anything to me

After traversing the the Loire Valley, we passed Borges and saw the Borges Cathedral in the distance — a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With Gothic and Romanesque architecture — and a period of re-construction in roughly the 12th century — it sounds like it might be very similar to the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel. Again, our apologies to historical European architecture fans for not stopping. It was, however, surprisingly easy to spot at distance because it seems to be the largest thing in Borges by a long shot.

Fun Fact: Next along the drive, we found ourselves seeing signs for what they kept calling the “Center of France”, which honestly sounded like marketing for some new retail operation. But, after passing a funky, pyramid-shaped bridge proclaiming to be “The Center of France”, it occurred to us that they might be speaking geographically. Neat-O.

Cruising onward toward the center of France


Strong contender for today’s blog name was “Mercedes Day”

As the afternoon wore on, we finally reached the volcanic region of Auvergne, and we were treated to views of extinct volcano cinder cones with old towns built on them.

Approaching the Auvergne Volcanic Natural Park region


Entering the Volcanoes of Auvergne park

The Chateau de Murol is very close to our hotel and was build on top of a basalt outcrop in the 12th century to protect itself from attacks. Turns out, building a giant fortress on the top of a huge volcanic rock surrounded by mountains is a good way to keep enemies at bay.

We found our hotel and I took a quick walk to check out the area.

We have arrived


Lac Chambon across from hotel


A Thursday Afternoon on Lac Chambon


“Don’t Forget the Lyrics” French version

Afterwards, we kicked back and relaxed. Evening plans included resting, blogging, working on that case of cidre we bought, and then getting to sleep early for our 6am hot air balloon flight tomorrow.

Day 7: Port Louis/Lorient

Tour de France Day, the sequel! Today, the fifth stage of the Tour de France begins across the bay from Port Louis in the city of Lorient. This gives us the chance to watch the start of a stage and compare it with a finish (from yesterday).

2018 Tour de France Stage 5 map

With some help from our local translator/guide (aka. Alan), we picked up a couple of loaves of bread from the Caucutts’ favorite boulongerie and ate breakfast back at their house. The bread lived up to the hype and the homemade jam was delicious.

Breakfast bread advice from Alan


Why did we go with bread, Alan?

We then took the bus, conviently located right across the street, to the ferry dock. The town of Port-Louis — which has only two stop signs (yes, two) — has a surprisingly well-run public transit system.

Despite Port Louis’ impressive transit system, the locals seemed to be a bit thrown off by the the influx of race fans as they were just trying to get to work. The first ferry filled up quickly, but a second arrived shortly thereafter and we grabbed a couple seats on the top section.

Port Louis 72 bus picks up right by the Caucutt’s place


We let the locals get on the first boat

The Caucutts recently signed the lease for an apartment in Lorient that happens to be located about a five minute walk from where the Tour was getting started today. Although they are not yet fully moved in, we stopped by for Nate’s new apartment tour — not to be confused with THE Tour.

After checking out the Caucutt’s new place, we made the short walk to the “Athlete’s Village” and found a festival with a large main stage and an emcee introducing and promoting various things to the crowd. There was music and sponsor booths to get/win free crap, which are always fun. We attempted to enter the official hospitality area, but discovered that area is reserved for the sponsors, team guests, and fancy-pants people who bought tickets.

The same sponsor parade that we saw during yesterday’s race also runs at the starting line. But, as Hannah so wisely put it, “We saw this yesterday. We don’t need more.” Instead, we avoided the throngs of people and walked along the park several blocks south of the starting line to reach a quieter area along the route.

Hannah also mastered DSLR basics in about 30 seconds

When we arrived, we found a bakery and sandwich shop to meet our snacking needs. We ate and relaxed as we awaited the start time. We were positioned near a curve in the road after a bridge so we figured that might look cool.

Lunch time!


ATTENTION! Everybody have your baguette-wiches at the ready!

The start of each stage features a “controlled start” where the riders warm up. They aren’t truly racing until they reach a point later down the road from where we were observing. Even so, they are biking as fast as you’d be driving a car on these same roads, if not faster. Here are the videos from our vantage point(s): Video 1 | Video 2

Yellow jersey sponsor bike with friendly chalkboard messages means the bikers are close


The controlled start rushes by only feet from Jo’s corner


And now… only ~200km from here to the end of today’s stage

When the very exciting minute concluded, we made our way through the fishing district of Lorient to board a different ferry back to Port Louis. This boat didn’t have a top deck, but it still allowed for some pretty good views.

Back in Port Louis, we met at the sailing club and tried our hand at paddle boarding. After a quick lesson, I was up and paddling. Matt not so much, but he gave it a good shot. We paddled around Lorient Harbor for a couple of hours. There is a very nice view, and while difficult, it is quite peaceful as well.

Port Louis Sailing Club has it all!


Sailing Club is just east of the old Citdel Fortress


Preparing to paddle board


One of us was actually good at paddle boarding

We were able to relax a bit before dinner at Le Tan’Pouce, a restaurant specializing in mussels convientiently located right on the water. Alex translated the menu for us and taught us a key trick in how to use one shell to pick the mussles out of the others. She made sure we knew not to eat the closed (dead) mussels so that we don’t get sick.

Delicious moules dinner on the docks

The name of Port Louis was established 400 years ago, but the town has been here for much longer. There are still clear remnants of this history. One is the giant city wall that surrounds the town. After dinner, we walked around (and on top of) the wall as the sun set, enjoying the views of the low tide.

Standing by the dock of the bay, watching the tide roll away


Caucutt clan meets the guy who owns the second (I think) oldest house in town


Fun with forced perspective on the Port Louis wall


Sunset behind the Citadel

We will depart Port Louis tomorrow, but plan to have breakfast with Nate and the kids one last time before we hit the road. A big thank you goes out to Nate, Alex, Alan and Hannah, who helped us plan, execute and thoroughly enjoy the last two days!

Day 6: Port Louis/Sarzeau

Tour de France day! We started with a quick early breakfast at the hotel and picked up Nate, Hannah, and Alan with a trunk full with provisions for the day. Today’s fourth stage of the Tour starts in La Baule and ends around 5:45pm in Sarzeau, which is a city on the Gulf of Morbihan about a 70-minute drive south of Port Louis along the Atlantic coast.

2018 Tour de France Stage 4 map

We made good time and successfully achieved our primary goal of beating traffic and road closures before access was blocked in certain directions later in the afternoon. With a few hours to spend in the Sarzeau area before we made our way to the finish line, we dialed up the Nate Caucett travel agency for two great suggestions.

When people think of French beverages of the adult variety, they probably think wine and/or champagne. However, in both the Normandy and Brittany regions “€ where we’ve been traveling the last five days “€ cidre might be king. In the town of Le Hezo, we made our first stop at la Maison du Cidre, a working cidery that showcases both antique and modern cider-making.

Cider apples slightly different from eatin’ apples

Starting with a video explaining the local history and process of cider making, the self-guided tour continued to the outdoor museum displaying the equipment. They keep a colony of bees on site to pollinate the apple trees. We concluded the tour with a tasting in the garden, which naturally led to a purchasing in the shop.

Large antique press for extracting the juice


One of the finished products, Royal Guillevic

Our second stop was Château du Suscinio. Without a full afternoon to explore the castle, we opted for the free walking tour on the paths around the moat “€ including a wooded path close to a nearby pond. Built in the middle ages, the castle was home to the Dukes of Brittany and has undergone serious renovations over the years.

My King’s Castle LEGO set, only real


With a working moat


Nicely restored towers


Now, where is that secret knot?

Next up, the main event… the Tour de France! Being inside the restricted area made it easy to find parking in one of the allocated lots, and in case there was any doubt, plenty of official tour vehicles and media cars helped guide the way.

Is there some kind of event we should be airing today?

We loaded up the pull cart with picnic supplies and trekked through the crowd until we found a suitable spot to camp out and watch the stage finish in a couple hours.

Tour wagon ready to go


Our spot 400 meters from the finish line


Like the state fair, along a single road


Jumbotrons to monitor the approaching action

From one of the vendor booths, a spiffy Tour de France hat was procured to satisfy both my souvenir and sun protection needs. Then, to amp up the crowd, about an hour before the riders crossed the finish line, we witnessed a sponsorship parade that took the art of distributing fan samples to epic levels. Among the things our group successfully grabbed in the melee… a shirt, grocery bags, candy, superglue, various hats, more candy, keychains, and a plush rooster.

Missed opportunity not making that an actual Bic pen cannon


Final moments before riders arrive

Finally the race approached, the tension rose and the riders came through! If there was any doubt, they go A LOT faster than it appears on TV “€ roughly 60-70 km/hr. With the crowd noise, the race announcer and the wooooosh created by the riders, it is quite a spectacle. Here are a couple videos we shot as the riders passed us: Video 1 | Video 2

The sprinters approach!

After the race concluded, we shuffled among the rest of the ~50k race fans (and Sarzeau’s ~6k residents) back to the parking lot, packed up the car, and headed back to Port Louis. Considering the scale of the event “€ and the fact the whole apparatus was heading to Lorient for the start of tomorrow’s fifth stage “€ the traffic was not that bad. We only encountered a few traffic “deviations.”

Returning to Port Louis in time to visit the night market, Alex guided us through the shops and led us to a food truck serving traditional galettes from Brittany (savory crêpes made with buck wheat).

Return to Port Louis for Tuesday night market


Galette truck right outside the Caucutt’s house

Since they pair well with cider, we popped open a brut cider from our stash and returned to the Caucett residence to eat, drink, and watch the end of the France-Belgium World Cup game. Spoiler alert: France won, advancing to the finals, and the town went nuts. Apparently this so called “football” thing is a big deal ‘round these parts.

French soccer fans celebrate


Night market mixed with World Cup partying

We ended the day back in the room, listening to the sweet sounds of the night market band playing down the street. Highlights included Santana and Hotel California. When they were complete, we dozed off to the singing and chanting of excited soccer fans.

Day 5: Mont Saint-Michel

Waking up early in the shadow of Mont Saint-Michel, our plan for the day was an early guided hike in the bay during low tide (before the high tide at ~4:30pm). We didn’t book one online because it wasn’t entirely clear which guides were bilingual… or working today (we’re looking at you, Homan!). However, the friendly German travelers we spoke to yesterday said you can just go to the information office and they’ll pretty much hook you up.

Bright and early waiting for Office du Tourisme to open!

And hook us up they did, sending us on the next available nature hike with our guide Alexander — who was great. We walked on quicksand, slid through riverbeds of silt (free spa treatment), and climbed over the salted marshlands.

Alexander draws a map of the bay

Speaking of salted marshlands, plenty of hearty vegetation finds a way to survive in the bay. At least two plants we discovered are edible raw… which we sampled (of course!). The samphire plant was especially tasty, with a satisfyingly salty flavor. The plants are so salty, that lamb raised around Mont Saint-Michel is actually saltier than other lamb — a result of their diet featuring the high-saline vegetation.

Salt marshes


You can eat samphire, mmmmm… salty

On our way back, we played with quicksand. Alexander informed us how to get out if you get stuck, and offered the helpful platitude “Quicksand is not a problem. But it is your problem.” Meaning: you can get out, but nobody can really help you.

Quicksand situation

Quicksand is a layer of sand sitting on top of a pocket of water. The depth of the sand determines how fast you sink in. When the sand is thick and undisturbed, you may not even know you are walking over water. If the sand layer is thin, you can fall in very quickly, but only up to your chest (yay buoyancy!). Alexander led us to a safe spot, and as a group, we disturbed the sand (via doing the samba in unison over a focused area). The movement on the sand created waves in the water below, and the sand rippled in a way that felt like we were jumping on a water bed. With the sand now broken up and mixing with the water, it was easy to slowly sink in. We continue to have fun with quicksand for a while before continuing back.

Basically a spa day


Back to Mont Saint-Michel

At the end of the hike, Alexander sold us discounted tickets to the Abbey, allowing us to bypass the ticket line at the church. Despite the warnings about long lines and big crowds, we hiked back up to the top of the Mont and walked right in. After entering the Abbey, we explored the place for a bit and met the guided tour at 2pm.

Climbing to the top of the Abbey


Abbey architecture


Ewe see that faucet?

Our tour guide Anne took us through each of the accesible rooms and areas of the church — originally built in 933. Some sections have been destroyed or changed, and additions have been built built. As it was not fully completed until 1523, there are various styles of architecture throughout.

Abbey tour with Anne


Classical facade rebuilt in 1780


Business in the front (Romanesque), party in the back (Medieval Gothic)


This is how you keep an 10th century Abbey clean


Peaceful Abbey cloister


Guests’ Hall for receiving royalty and nobility, sans fireplace

Upon completing the tour, we watched the tide start to rise and we returned to the hotel to pick up our bags — successfully avoiding buying any crazy souvenirs. To depart the Mont, we once again opted to walk back to the mainland and enjoy the glorious afternoon weather instead of waiting in line for the packed shuttle buses (the ones with two front ends so they don’t have to pull U-Turns for the return trip).

Tide rising


Looking west(ish)

Just before returning to the car, we ducked into a hotel bar for some coffee. And, of course, we watched part of stage 3 of the Tour De France, as we ate our contraband hotel sandwiches and regained some energy.

Cafe latte and sandwiches back on the mainland

Back on the road, we decided to drive the slightly more scenic route to Port-Louis, and got a feel for the natural transition from Normandy to Brittany. After checking into our hotel, we tracked down the Caucutts.

We found a Caucutt!

Over some welcome shots of apple brandy, we caught up and confirmed our plans for Tuesday and Wednesday. Tomorrow should be a fun day of cider, castles, and the Tour de France if we can pull it off.