Hello from Peru Again!

Day 12: Hong Kong

Updated: June 16, 2012

This morning we slept in and ate a delicious Regency Club breakfast while overlooking Tolo Harbor. Having done most of the main tourist-y things on our last visit, we decided to spend the afternoon wandering through several area markets. We took the train to Kowloon and started at the Flower Market, which was nowhere near as crowded as Bangkok’s but still loaded with all manner of flowers, plants, and herbs.

Waiting for the next MTR train to downtown

Small section of Flower Market Road

Fake flowers available as well

Next up was Yuen Po Street Bird Garden, a lovely little garden that also serves as a space for traders to sell birds. Birds of all kinds were available to buy, ranging from small songbirds to exotic colorful macaws, as well as cages and every imaginable accessory.

Get your birds here

What makes it "anti-stress"?

We made our way through the crazy traffic to Fa Yuen Street, a long stretch of shops and stalls selling clothes, shoes, housewares, produce, and other odds and ends. Not much worth buying here, although we did ponder buying new iPhone cases for a bargain price of three bucks. We stopped at McDonalds for a drink and so Matt could check out their pie menu for new flavors (only apple here, boo), then walked on to the Goldfish Market. This is one of Hong Kong’s oldest markets, and the vast number of pet stores lining the street sell fish, turtles, lizards, tarantulas, and other exotic animals.

Lots of buses, cars and people

Coke freeze makes Nicole happy

Stock up your aquarium at the Goldfish Market

Tired and still feeling the effects of whatever we picked up in Cambodia, we called it quits on the sightseeing and took the train back to the hotel. For dinner we took full advantage of the Regency Club’s complimentary hors d’oeurves and cocktails, eating delicious snacks and reading newspapers in the very comfortable lounge for almost three hours. Taking further advantage of our room amenities, we checked out movies from the business center and watched ‘Quantum of Solace’, enjoying a pleasant, quiet evening in our awesome room.

We sort of ignored this MTR policy

Looking south from the Hyatt Regency Club deck

Thankfully they aren't running war drills, right?

One more day to go… 🙂

Day 11: Siem Reap/Hong Kong

by Nicole

Updated: June 15, 2012

4 Comments

After one more delicious breakfast, we said our farewells to the awesome staff at the Golden Banana and met David for one last tuk-tuk ride to Siem Reap’s airport. Today was a day of transit – Siem Reap to Hong Kong via Bangkok.

Is dragonfruit the Rodney Dangerfield of tropical fruits???

Bon Voyage! Back to Bangkok we go...

From now on, when I see people gang-tackling a horse, I'll think of the Siem Reap airport

The ATR 72 is a rare passenger plane that boards from the back

Sailing over the Cambodian countryside

Snapshot of the ATR 72 propeller in flight

Plane day = plain photos

We had a short one-hour flight to Bangkok on Bangkok Airways, which was the only plane I’ve been on where I boarded at the back. After checking in for our Hong Kong flight, we endured the sweltering Bangkok airport by brilliantly pulling chairs directly in front of a gigantic air conditioner. During our five-hour layover, we spent the last of our Thai baht on Burger King and Dairy Queen (yeah, that’s right :)) and finished a blog to pass the time.

Close to the day's destination... Hong Kong

After another pleasant Cathay Pacific flight to Hong Kong, we deliberated over taking public transportation vs. a taxi to the hotel. Too tired to deal with lugging luggage, we chose taxi and headed for the taxi line, expecting a mob scene as has been par for the course at all other giant Asian airports we’ve visited. Instead, we were delighted to find the taxi line to have exactly ZERO people in it, and thirty minutes later we arrived at the Hyatt Regency Sha Tin.

Here we are passing the slow bus we considered taking to the Hyatt. Good call taxi!!!

We checked into our lovely suite (THANK YOU, MOM AND DAD!) and settled in for the night, researching things to do during our two days here. (However, this room is so nice we may just hang out here instead! :))

Day 10: Siem Reap

by Nicole

Updated: June 14, 2012

3 Comments

This morning we felt much better and lounged around the hotel until mid-afternoon, when we once again met our tuk-tuk driver David (who, as it was becoming clear, was our personal driver :)) and set out for more temple trekking.

Our mission was to see nearly everything in Angkor Thom (‘Great City’), which is a gigantic, 2200-plus acre plot of Cambodian jungle surrounded by a tall square wall and 100-meter wide moat. Entering the complex, we were greeted by immense gates topped with large stone faces of the Angkor King responsible for the city’s construction.

After another ten minutes of driving (seriously, this place is huge), we came to the center of the city featuring several important structures comissioned by Jayavarman VII, the Angkor King referenced above. But one stands out as his crown jewel: the Bayon Temple.

Approaching Bayon

Jayavarman VII was a humble guy

From a distance, Bayon looks a bit like a pile of rubble, but that changed when we stepped inside. On the first and second levels, there are impressive bas-reliefs with over 11,000 figures carved into the stone (many depicting everyday life in 12th-century Cambodia).

Climbing through the temple

But the third level is where it got awesome – 54 towers decorated with 216 enormous smiling faces (said to bear a resemblance to the king Jayavaraman VII, the king responsible for nearly everything in Angkor Thom).

The third level gives you a good look at the faces

Plenty of apsara dancers as well

We win the guide book cover game again!

Everywhere we looked the faces were visible, some looking down on us from up high and some at eye-level. From the perspective of a 13th-century Khmer peasant, there would be no doubt in your mind that Jayavaraman VII was a god.

I would not be surprised if they paid monks to walk around and make pictures better

Despite this winning smile, Olmec beat him out for the Legends of the Hidden Temple job

Faces' profiles holding up pretty well after 800 years of Cambodian jungle weather

Traditional dance performers hanging out

Next up was Baphuon, a ‘jigsaw puzzle’ of a temple (its restoration was interrupted during the Khmer Rouge years, all records were destroyed, and experts were basically left with 300,000 pieces to put back together). We didn’t realize it, but this must be an active temple because I was not allowed in wearing my shorts and tanktop. Matt made a quick pass through while I walked around the perimeter, admiring the giant banyan trees that surround it.

Looking down the raised causeway at Baphuon temple

Restored columns under the causeway

View from the top (almost) of Baphoun

After Baphuon, we wandered north through the jungle to Phimeanakas (‘Celestial Palace’), a small temple near an area that once housed the royal palace, and climbed its long staircase to check out the view.

Plenty of non-temple ruins to see walking to the next temple

Phimeanakas lore was definitely the king's idea. Wikipedia it.

Another shot for the "What's liability insurance???" gallery

We walked on to the Terrace of the Elephants, a long causeway that once held large audiences for public ceremonies, and at the Terrace of the Leper King, our guidebook led us to a hidden ‘terrace within a terrace’ below the main outer wall with four tiers of gorgeous carved apsaras that have been beautifully preserved.

Terrace of the Elephants (distance) and Leper King (foreground)

Behind a false terrace wall is the original terrace wall of the Leper King

Prasat Suor Prat (‘Temple of the Tightrope Dancers’) is a series of twelve large towers that served dual purpose: tightrope performances for the king, and public trials: the two parties in dispute were made to sit in each tower, and whoever got sick and died first was (obviously) guilty.

Twelve Prasat Sour Prat (or tightrope-walker towers) were also used for public trials

Tired and SO sweaty, we found our driver (napping under a tree again) and went to Phnom Bakheng, where everyone goes to watch the sunset over Angkor Wat. We climbed the hill alongside a circus of tourists, but once at the top, we decided it wasn’t cool enough to wait another hour before sunset and walked back down.

Genius!

You can ride elephants up Phnom Bakheng

After one more stop at Angkor Wat to take some pictures in the evening light, we drove back to the hotel for drinks and dinner, stopping by the night market to do a little more haggling. Our hotel, the Golden Banana, was so fantastic we didn’t feel the least bit bad about not seeing any of Siem Reap besides it and Angkor; we wanted to stay another month. It’s one of the best hotels we’ve ever visited. 🙂

Angkor Wat in the distance from Phnom Bakheng

Cambodia was awesome. It’s terribly hot in summer (or all the time), you get covered in dust, the roads kind of suck, and it’s pretty dirty, but the people are incredibly friendly, it’s SO cheap, the food is great, we felt very comfortable navigating around the cities, and Angkor is one of the most impressive sights we’ve ever seen. We’d return in a heartbeat.

Tomorrow it’s off to Hong Kong for the last leg of the trip!

Day 9: Siem Reap

by Nicole

Updated: June 13, 2012

2 Comments

This morning we woke up, assessed our health, and decided we were feeling well enough to have some breakfast and go see the temples of Angkor. We hired a tuk-tuk and headed off into the (blazing) midday sun.

Basically, this place is massive. Of the hundreds of temples that make up Angkor, we started at Angkor Wat (‘temple that is a city’). The most famous temple of Angkor is also the best-preserved as it was never abandoned to the elements. To reach the actual temple, you first must cross a huge rectangular moat and pass thru an outer wall, encompassing over 200 acres of land where the city that supported the temple once existed.

Angkor Wat's western entrance is a stone causeway over the moat

Inside the outer wall (which is 2.2 miles long)

Very old stairs

Apsara figures dominate Angkor Wat's stone carvings

Approaching the temple

Angkor Wat contains three stories, each enclosing a square of intricately linked galleries. Surrounding the outside of the first story is an amazing series of bas-reliefs, which describe important events in Khmer history.

Detailed bas-reliefs cover the first ring of the temple

We wandered through the galleries and made our way up to the second story; unfortunately we weren’t able to climb the steep staircase up to the third level. Crowds were incredibly light – we practically had the grounds to ourselves.

Advance to level 2!

You have reached level 2!

You did not reach level 3. Try again!

Everywhere you look there is incredible detail carved into the stone; Angkor Wat features over 3000 apsaras (heavenly nymphs), complete with 37 different hairstyles. 🙂 Thousands of myths, legends, signs, and symbols are seen around the temple, some serving as protectors or purifiers. Many of the carvings were damaged by previous attempts to clean the temples with chemicals in the 1980s, but a large restoration project is underway.

Yeah it's hot

Overheated (why did we decide to come here at noon again?) and still a little wobbly from our tummy issues the day before, we weren’t feeling the best but decided to press on to another one of the area’s highlights: the tree-locked temple of Ta Phrom. The most atmospheric of all the temples of Angkor, it has been swallowed by the jungle, its towers and walls consumed by the vast root systems of the gigantic trees that surround it.

Build your own ancient temple

Banyan trees took a liking to the central sanctuary at Ta Prohm

Banyan tree + 600 years = good photo op

Temple is in better shape than we are in this photo

After an abbreviated tour of Ta Phrom, our shaky state of health deemed our day of touring over. We shuffled past the many children selling bracelets and postcards at the temple entrance, found our driver napping under a tree, and drove back to the hotel for some much-needed air-conditioning and pool time.

Back at hotel pool

Relaxing on the balcony

Feeling better, we enjoyed a lovely dinner at the hotel’s cafe before doing some more shopping at the nearby night market.

Cheers to semi-sick travelers!

Whoa! Why don't you try heading home!

We didn’t see as much of Angkor as we wanted today, so here’s hoping we feel well enough to head back out tomorrow on our last day in Siem Reap!

Day 8: Siem Reap

by Nicole

Updated: June 12, 2012

2 Comments

Today, unfortunately, the symptoms of ‘traveler’s tummy’ sunk their hooks into both of us in varying degrees. Thus today was as follows:

Nic: pool, book, spring rolls, sleep
Matt: sleep, sleep, toast, sleep

Pool day

Matt's breakfast, lunch, and dinner

Gorgeous day!

Oh well. 🙂

Day 7: Phnom Penh/Siem Reap

by Nicole

Updated: June 11, 2012

1 Comment

Up too early for the hotel’s breakfast, we made a quick meal of oatmeal and coffee in the room before leaving for the bus station. There are several travel options between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap (air, boat, bus, taxi), and we opted for the cheapest: $12 bus tickets on the Mekong Express. The ticket included transport from the hotel to the bus station, where we boarded a comfortable, air-conditioned coach bus. The trip took six hours, and we were provided cold towels, snacks, and water, along with a guide who offered information on the areas we passed through.

Fancy oatmeal breakfast

Mekong Express bus station

Making announcements in Khmer, followed by English

Halfway to Siem Reap we stopped at a restaurant in the province of Kampong Thom. We opted to skip lunch and instead checked out the large market across the street filled with housewares, food, and more endless racks of clothes.

Pit stop in Kampong Thom

All TVs inside the market were tuned to the live Bradley-Pacquiao fight

These cookies are yo' friend

As promised, six hours from our departure in Phnom Penh we pulled into Siem Reap’s small bus station, where a tuk-tuk driver from our hotel was waiting to pick us up.

Entering Siem Reap city limits

Unfortunately, not our driver's tuk tuk

Ready to roll

The Golden Banana Hotel is a gorgeous boutique hotel located in southwest Siem Reap, and our room is one of the coolest we’ve stayed in: poolside, two stories, high ceilings, rain shower, and private balcony with super-cool hanging ‘basket’ chair. We loved it immediately and I would like to stay forever. 🙂

Two-story hotel room

We spent a relaxing afternoon by the pool, then after a nap we walked over to check out the nearby night market.

One of Siem Reap's night markets (helpfully pointed out!)

Shopping at the night market

Today was pretty uneventful, but we’re set up in a lovely hotel and are ready for some hardcore temple trekking during our three days in Siem Reap!

Day 6: Phnom Penh

by Nicole

Updated: June 12, 2012

2 Comments

This morning we took a Cambodian cooking class that included a trip to a local produce/meat market. Along with fifteen other people, we piled into tuk-tuks (motorcycles with carriages pulled behind) and went grocery shopping. Our instructor pointed out various fruits, vegetables, and spices used in Khmer cuisine, and we passed through a large butchering section (though most of the butchering had been done earlier that morning).

Piles of fruit at Kandal Market

Quick produce identification class

Dry-goods shopkeeper

The market was packed; we squeezed our way through the tiny alleys and stopped at several different stalls to pick up ingredients for our lunch (including fresh tumeric, coconut milk, tigerfish, sawtooth coriander leaves, and taro root).

Fish so fresh they jumped right off the table

Limes for sale (spiky, stinky durian fruit in the background)

Delicious mangoes

She is definitely not moving for that motorbike

The class was held outside on a rooftop of a nearby building; we got aprons and a brief overview and got to work. The menu was spring rolls with taro, carrot, and peanuts (with sweet & sour dipping sauce), and a traditional Khmer dish called fish amok, or steamed curried fish. The spring rolls were a community effort, with everyone helping shred and chop vegetables, mix the filling, and roll it into rice-flour wrappers. We sat down to enjoy the delicious fried goodies before moving on to the main course.

Outdoor kitchen setup

Spring rolls ready for the oil

Hard at work with our mortars and pestles

We made the curry base for the fish amok from scratch, using mortars and pestles and fresh turmeric that turned our fingers yellow. The curry base (lemongrass, turmeric, garlic, shallot, galangal, chili peppers, and chili paste) was mixed with fresh coconut milk, egg yolk, palm sugar, shrimp paste, and chopped peanuts, and thinly sliced fish was stirred in last. The dish is traditionally steamed in a “cup” made from banana leaves, which we all more-or-less successfully created.

Fish amok ready for the steamer basket

Fifteen minutes of steaming later, we enjoyed our delicious curry with rice. This dish was very easy to prepare, although I don’t know how practical it would be to replicate it at home. Banana leaves might be a bit of a challenge to find! We received a recipe booklet with both dishes we prepared as well as a few others. The class was extremely well-run with great instructors – we’re really happy we signed up. 🙂

Delicious!

Back near the hotel, we browsed in a few shops before heading back to rest a while and catch up on the blog. We planned to visit the Central Market, Phnom Penh’s largest, but were disappointed to realize (at 4:30 PM) that it closed at 5 PM. Since we had already visited the night market, we checked the guidebook and learned that there was a theater showing shadow puppet performances every Friday and Saturday night. Sold! We walked to a nearby noodle shop for dinner and thanks to some iPhone sleuthing, found a supermarket to get some things for our bus ride the next day.

Chess is a good three-player game when one is asleep

We watched this motorbike transform into a schoolbus

Taking important calls during the commute

Distance from bike wheels corresponds with happiness

With 45 minutes before showtime, we tried our best to convey our destination to a tuk-tuk driver and set off in search of the theater. Forty minutes later, after turning around several times, stopping for directions, and ending up at the end of a dark street where there definitely was no theater, our driver stopped to ask directions once more and was gratefully pointed in the right direction by a large group of nearby children. We made it into our seats with a minute to spare (as has been our MO many times this trip so far).

Close only counts in horseshoes, hand grenades and tuk tuk driver directions

The shadow puppet performance was fun, featuring a live Khmer-music orchestra and a storyline we didn’t necessarily follow but enjoyed anyway. After the one-hour show, we got to go backstage and see the beautifully-made, intricate puppets.

Shadow puppet wolves eating donkey

Orchestra and puppeteers

Are there a lot of wolves in Cambodia???

We took a much smoother tuk-tuk ride back to the hotel and went for one more swim, stopping for fruit shakes and board games at the poolside cafe.

This version has it right. Chutes sound like fun, snakes do not.

Our time in Phnom Penh was brief but very enjoyable; I hope to return here someday. Next up: the temples of Angkor in Siem Reap!

Day 5: Phnom Penh

by Nicole

Updated: June 9, 2012

3 Comments

Our first full day in Phnom Penh began with breakfast poolside at the hotel’s cafe. Highlights included fresh passion fruit juice and homemade pineapple-ginger jam, along with piles of amazing fresh fruit. After breakfast we met the driver we hired for the morning and set out for the Tuol Sleng Museum and the killing fields of Choeung Ek.

In early 1975, the Khmer Rouge took over Phnom Penh and forced the entire population into the countryside. During the time of the Democratic Kampuchea (Pol Pot was the prime minister), huge numbers of Phnom Penhois were imprisoned or killed. Tuol Svay Prey High School was taken over by Pol Pot’s security forces and turned into a prison known as Security Prison 21, or S-21. This soon became the largest center of detention and torture in the country, and the Tuol Sleng Museum now serves as a testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge and the atrocities that occurred at S-21.

Gallows in courtyard at Tuol Sleng

Instructions for detainees at Tuol Sleng

Expulsion of populations from Cambodian cities

Each prisoner in S-21 was photographed (sometimes before and after torture), and the museum has room after room of harrowing photos of men, women, and children. Visitors can enter the cells – some big enough for only one person, while others held many – and some cells still contain the rusted iron beds and various instruments of torture. Gravesites of several prisoners remain in the museum’s courtyard. This was a very depressing place but was also important in helping understand this major part of Cambodia’s history.

Torture devices used at S-21

Barbed wire to prevent suicides from upper floors

From Tuol Sleng we drove southwest to Choeung Ek, better known as the Killing Fields. Between 1975-1978, about 17,000 men, women, children, and infants who had been detained at S-21 were taken here to be killed. The remains of ~9000 people were exhumed from mass graves in 1980; 43 of the 129 communal graves have been left untouched. A large structure known as the Memorial Stupa displays more than 9000 skulls and bone fragments behind clear glass panels.

Memorial stupa at Choeung Ek Genocidal Memorial (kIlling fields)

Over 9000 skulls stacked in the Memorial Stupa

An audio tour accompanied our walk around the grounds, offering explanations of various areas and describing buildings and structures used for extermination that no longer exist today. The area is beautiful, full of trees, plants, flowers, and a large lake, though the many large depressions in the ground serve as reminders of the large graves disinterred not so long ago. We learned that from time to time, especially after heavy rains, fragments of bone and bits of cloth still surface and are carefully collected and preserved by the groundskeepers.

This was a tough place to visit. What happened here is impossible to imagine or understand, and the peacefulness of the grounds now makes it even harder to do so. Two spots were particularly difficult – the large tree primarily used for killing women, children, and infants, now strung with hundreds of colorful bracelets in their memory, and the nearby Magic Tree, whose branches held speakers that played loud Khmer music to drown out the sounds of the screaming people. Standing under this tree listening to a combination of this music and the sounds of a diesel generator (described by the audio narrator as “likely the last sounds these people ever heard”) was a chilling experience. Grim as it was, I’m very glad we visited Choeung Ek; it’s a place I will not be forgetting any time soon.

Killing tree's trunk used to bludgeon victims

Prayer bracelets for women and children killed

The branches of the Magic Tree

Back at the hotel, we avoided the afternoon thunderstorm and booked massages in the lovely hotel spa. Properly relaxed, we headed back out into the streets of the city in search of a restaurant called Friends. Owned by an NGO, Friends is part of a local organization working with Cambodian street children and their families to help them become independent and productive members of the community. The entire staff, including servers and cooks, are street children training for the hospitality industry, and both the food and the service was fantastic.

Shrimp wontons, mango cashew chicken and fried rice

After dinner we walked over to Sisowath Quay, the street running along the Tonle Sap river. Lots of people were out, fishing, dancing, playing soccer; we had a great time strolling along observing the locals.

He looks about as sure of fishing the Tonle Sap River as he should be

Phnom Penh's riverside athletic club

And the dude on the far right is king

Participating on the sidelines of the dance mob

Handing out flyers to traffic... without slowing down!

On weekend evenings Phnom Penh has a large night market, so we walked over to check it out. There was stall after stall of clothes (many recognizable US brands, unsurprisingly), along with a few trinket stalls and lots of food stands. We bought delicious fish-shaped chocolate pancakes but no clothes.

Phnom Penh night market

Food court mats

Fish-shaped chocolate-filled donut makers

We walked back along the river to the hotel, had a swim in the beautiful pool, and called it a night. Initial Phnom Penh observations: very poor, very dirty, maybe the worst traffic of anywhere we’ve visited, easy to navigate, unique French-inspired architecture, and some of the friendliest people we’ve met. I’m already wishing we were here for a longer time. 🙂

Day 4: Bangkok/Phnom Penh

by Nicole

Updated: June 10, 2012

3 Comments

This morning we slept in, had one last delicious Peninsula breakfast, and packed up to leave the hotel at noon.

Chao Phraya view from hotel

Peninsula ferry coming to pick us up

Anticipating more terrible traffic, we opted to take the Skytrain to connect to the city’s Airport Express train. The travel gods smiled upon us once again and we dashed onto the train seconds before it left (only two trains per hour). The $3 ride took only 15 minutes and we were checked in for our Air Asia flight to Phnom Penh with an hour to kill. With some baht left to spend, we browsed the restaurants and shops looking for snacks.

Mango with coconut sticky rice

Suvarnabhumi International Airport

Our one-hour flight passed quickly and uneventfully (love Air Asia!) and after a quick stop for visa processing we met our driver who drove us to our hotel in a really cool red vintage Jaguar. 🙂

If you don't have a street named after you in Phnom Penh, you were probably a crappy Communist

The Pavilion is a beautiful little boutique hotel I found thanks to my trip-planning assistant, aka TripAdvisor, and we were welcomed with hot towels, cold drinks, and a complimentary welcome massage. Thanks to the helpful staff, within ten minutes we had bus tickets, spots in a local cooking class, a driver arranged for a half-day trip, and several nearby restaurant recommendations.

The pool at the Pavilion

Dinner was at Frizz, a restaurant specializing in Khmer cuisine, and we opted to try the Khmer BBQ with its ‘volcano pot’, a large charcoal-fired burner on which we grilled fish, chicken, and beef that were mixed with raw egg. Vegetables and fruit cooked alongside, and once done, everything was wrapped in lettuce leaves and dipped in an incredibly potent lime-pepper-fish sauce.

DIY dinner

This little lizard watched us eat our entire meal

Street outside hotel

We’ll miss Bangkok but are looking forward to our week in Cambodia!

Day 3: Bangkok

by Nicole

Updated: June 7, 2012

3 Comments

After a lazy morning lounging in our beautiful hotel room, we enjoyed another delicious breakfast and decided to spend the afternoon shopping and spa-ing before our scheduled bike excursion later in the evening.

Matt loves the mangoes here. Like, a LOT.

Bangkok is full of gigantic shopping malls, but Terminal 21, opened last October, was worth checking out. The entire space resembls an airport terminal, and each floor is designed around a different city (Tokyo, San Francisco, Istanbul). We skipped all the regular, high-priced stores and headed for my favorite area – the basement food market and grocery store, where I was delighted to find an international food exhibition going on as well.

Aerial view from top floor of Terminal 21

Get excited, Katie - this is your souvenir

Near the mall was Bai Po, a little massage shop where we enjoyed another $10/hour massage (such a ridiculously good deal). As we were leaving it was beginning to rain, so we decided to get a cab and head toward the bike shop. By the time we hailed one it was pouring, and our driver told us it would take one hour to get to our destination (we had an hour and ten minutes until our tour started).

Traffic was so horrendously awful that with fifteen minutes to go, we looked at our map, consulted with our driver, and decided to walk the rest of the way. I don’t know how anyone ever gets anywhere driving in this city at certain times of the day. Hustling through the crowds (and the rain, still) we made it to the Grasshopper Adventures office at 6 PM on the dot.

Going nowhere fast

We were signed up for a Bangkok Night Ride, a four-hour tour through the back streets of the city and an opportunity to visit some of the markets and area temples after dark. Our guide set us up with our bikes and helmets, and our little group (us, a couple from Norway, and a girl from China), took off in a drizzly rain.

Ready to ride!

Almost immediately, the drizzly rain became a torrential downpour; we were soaked to the skin in minutes. We rode on until we reached an underpass, where we stopped to wait it out and try and secure whatever was in our bags.

Really happy with my decision to wear a black t-shirt today

The rain did not let up, and we rode until we reached a pier where we loaded our bikes on a ferry and crossed the river (which was now lit up with lightning as well). Once across, we stopped for a long time at another underpass while our guide tried to decide if it was worth continuing on. (She also chose this moment to hand out disposable ponchos, which most of us declined for obvious reason.) As a group, we decided to go on; we were already soaked, so why not?

The tour is designed to avoid the city’s busiest streets; we rode along side streets and back alleys, past tiny shops and food stalls, waving hello to people as our single-file bike line rolled by. And by the time we reached Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn), the rain stopped. 🙂

We visited Wat Arun on our last visit to Bangkok, and it is one of our favorite temples we’ve seen. But seeing it at night, gorgeously lit up with no tourists around, was pretty awesome. Our guide gave us a brief history of the temple and then we had some time to walk around and take pictures.

Wat Arun at night

Matt is happy because his clothes are starting to dry

Gate protectors

The next stop on our ride was the Flower Market; here we locked up the bikes and did this part on foot. We stopped at a stall where our guide bought us all drinks – soda is poured from its glass bottle and served in a plastic bag, ice and all, for easy transport.

This is actually a very convenient way to carry a drink

Pak Khlong Talat (translated: market at the mouth of the canal) is Bangkok’s primary flower market and is open 24 hours every day, selling flowers, fruits, and vegetables. The flowers are all grown in Thailand, with many coming from nearby provinces and others from cities further north, like Chiang Mai. It is considered Bangkok’s largest wholesale market for flower vendors, and it is easy to understand why – I have never seen so many flowers in one place. The variety was incredible: orchids, roses, daisies, lotus flowers, jasmine and marigold blossoms, some sold loose, some in bouquets, and some strung into beautiful garlands.

Bags of marigold blossoms

Everything wrapped neatly

Along the way our guide bought us a variety of street snacks: sticky rice and sweet beans wrapped in a banana leaf, tiny coconut crepes filled with custard, and grilled sausages-on-a-stick served with cabbage leaves and fresh ginger. All delicious!

Crepes for everybody!

Trying Issan-style sausages

The last stop on our tour was Wat Po, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. We also visited this spot previously, but it was still cool to walk around the temple grounds in complete solitude. After a few more pictures, we rode back to the bike shop, passing the Grand Palace along the way. This bike tour was an absolute delight, despite the downpour, and I’d recommend it to anyone visiting Bangkok.

Wat Po after dark

Beautifully lit halls

So cool to see these structures at night

After thanking our guide for an excellent outing, we went in search of a nearby pad Thai restaurant I’d read about. The huge woks of noodles being fried up outside should have been an indication we were in the right place, though we didn’t know for sure until we sat down and looked at the menu! We sampled regular pad Thai with tofu and egg and shrimp pad Thai wrapped in egg, omelet-style. Both were excellent and a ridiculous bargain at $1.50/plate.

All the cooking is done right out on the sidewalk

SO DELICIOUS OMG

Another great day – can’t let a little rain stop us! That’s what they make quick-dry pants for, after all. 🙂